EPICURIOUSITY

McDonald's Shame Mask

2012-01-10T08:34:00.000-05:00

Mark Bittman''s Twitter feed alerted me to the McDonald's Shame Mask, a nifty device for eating fast food on the sly. It does bring up all sorts of issues that I face with my 6 & 7 year old children, and even my own fast food demons. I am the Vice Chair of Slow Food RVA. I believe in the movement and most everything it stands for. Is there a place for fast food in this paradigm? I don't think so. My kids beg otherwise. If we frequent any of those places, its more often Subway, or Chick Fil-A. But given the recent news of their feelings towards gay folks, my visits there have become tainted by politcs.

A Carat Carrot

2012-01-04T20:52:00.000-05:00

One of my favorite food stories from the last few weeks involves a Swedish couple finding a long lost wedding ring when they harvested some carrots from their garden. The ring had been lost in the couple's kitchen in 1996 and they theorize that it may have fallen into the compost bin, traveling ultimately to its resting spot in the garden. Serendipity took over when a carrot grew through the ring. For the complete story, click here.

A New Year

2012-01-01T23:21:00.000-05:00

With the start of a new year, I hope to get some momentum and write more often. I could promise to try and write every day, but that's probably too lofty a goal. Some days I may just leave you with a crumb of a quote from what I'm reading, a recipe, a food fact, or some other morsel.

After taking part in The Frontier Project's Frontier Session on Food issues in December, they sent me on my way with a copy of Tamar Adler's An Everlasting Meal. It's one of my favorite recent reads- she cooked with Alice Waters at Chez Panisse, and Gabrielle Hamilton at Prune and has a way with language.

"Great meals rarely start at points that all look like beginnings. They usually pick up where something else leaves off. This is how most of the best things are made-- imagine if the world had to begin from scratch each dawn: a tree would never grow, nor would we ever get to see the etchings of gentle rings on a clamshell. I have spare but sturdy recommendations for beginnings, and lots for picking up loose ends. Stale slices of bread should be ground into breadcrumbs, which make a delicious topping for pasta, and add crunch to a salad. Or they must be toasted and broken apart for croutons or brittle crackers which ask to be smeared with olive paste. Meals' ingredients must be allowed to topple into one another like dominos. Broccoli stems, their florets perfectly boiled in salty water, must be simmered with olive oil and eaten with shaven Parmesan on toast; their leftover cooking liquid kept as the base for soup, studded with other vegetables, drizzled with good olive oil, with the rind of the Parmesan added for heartiness. This continuity is the heart and soul of cooking. If we decide our meals will be good, remanded kale stems, quickly pickled or cooked in olive oil and garlic, will be taken advantage of to garnish eggs, or tossed with pasta, Beet and turnip greens, so often discarded, will be washed well and sauteed in olive oil and filled in an omelet, or served on warm garlicky crostini. The omelets or little toasts will have cost no more than eggs and stale bread, and both will have been more gratifying to eater and cook."

A day to give thanks

2011-11-24T13:31:00.000-05:00

What’s this Foodie thankful for this year?

As another year starts to wind down, I find myself reflecting on 2011 and capturing some of the moments, big and small, that I have been fortunate to have been a part of:

Slow Food RVA: As a still maturing organization, Slow Food RVA took real strides this year in promoting the ideals of Good, Clean, Fair Food.

We shared raw milk and cheeses at our Annual Meeting, hosted the TEDX viewing party at St Stephens Episcopal Church;
organized a Slow Food Happy Hour with the Anderson Gallery and brought in producers such as Manakintowne Growers, Avery’s Farm, Pizza Tonight, and Olli Salumeria, as well as the Indigenous Gourd Trio ;
held our first film festival Reel Food RVA at the Byrd Theater;
Partnered with Hardywood Craft Brewing for a beer tasting and tour of the new brewery

Many many thanks to Stacy Luks for her tireless leadership and for Tracy, Jamie, Ashley and Jo-de ‘s support throughout the year.

Know Your Veggies and the Holton Garden

Know Your Veggies, a pilot program promoting healthy eating for elementary school kids, finished the school year strong last May with over 80 classroom visits, thanks to the efforts of Chef’s Ellie Basch and Sally Schmidt as well as many volunteers. Thanks also to Bon Secours for providing nutrition education. We’ve had a slow start this Fall, but have added some Parent/Child cooking classes as well. Under the leadership of Susanna Raffenot and Ellen Shepard, the Holton Garden is growing and providing great experiences for students and volunteers. And the outdoor classroom was a winner of a 2011 Golden Hammer Award!

Thanks to the national Foodie thoughtleaders Mark Bittman, Michael Pollan and Josh Viertel. And my favorite locals, The Richmond Food Collective; Eating Richmond, and The Frontier Project .

Shalom Farms

Dominic Barrett and Steve Miles at Shalom Farms are carrying the torch for Food Security in the Richmond area. Providing great volunteer and education opportunities at their farm in Goochland and much needed fresh produce in Richmond’s food deserts, they are one of Richmond’s jewels. Had a chance to attend a fundraising dinner created by Mezzanine’s Todd Johnson last month and was moved by the community of supporters.

The Richmond market scene

I am truly thankful for the Richmond market community that nourishes our city. Thanks to SOTJ, St Stephens and the Byrd House markets for providing sustenance and community. Thanks to Amy’s Garden and Victory Farms and Pizza Tonight and Nate’s Tacos and Manakintowne and Faith Farms and Tuckahoe Plantation and Agriberry and Drumhellers and all the rest who make Saturday mornings my favorite time of the week.

Richmond Restaurants

To the newcomers who have added some great dining options to Richmond’s food landscape:

Secco - Kudos to Julia, Tim and Peter for providing a European experience without the airfare.

Pescados China Street Todd and company bringing Richmond some of the best fish around.

The Rooselvelt - Kendra Feather and Lee Gregory hit a homerun with their new Church Hill spot.

And thanks to the regulars that have kept me nourished and caffeinated:

Mamma Zu, Kuba Kuba, Mekong, Pho So I, 8 1/2 , The Empress, Enoteca Sogno, Lamplighter……….

Last but not least, I am thankful for my family and friends without whom the table would be empty. Thanks for breaking bread together.

Pizza Tonight= Meatballs too !

2011-11-13T19:46:00.000-05:00

Pizza Tonight has done it again.... the same nice folks who show up all over town with their wood fired oven on wheels, and sell their wonderfully supple dough and pizza kits, have added meatballs to their repertoire.

A collaboration with Sausage Craft, Victoria shares her old family recipe with RVA. Spaghetti and meatballs can be on the dinner table in just a few minutes. I made my first batch for dinner tonight, and was happy with the texture and flavor.

Look for them in the places you find Pizza Tonight's dough and kits, like Fall Line Farms, Relay Foods, River City Cellars, Ellwood Thompson's or the South of the James Market.

Growing Community - A Farm to Fork Dinner

2011-10-23T16:36:00.000-04:00

The good folks from Shalom Farms are hosting a benefit dinner tomorrow night at Gallery 5. You may ask, what is Shalom Farms all about:

Begun in the fall of 2008, Shalom Farms is a nonprofit community farm project with the overarching goal of increasing food security in the Richmond region, particularly in low-income urban neighborhoods. A collaboration with many diverse and expert partners, the project is attaining its goal by: 1) providing fresh and healthy produce to underserved communities; 2) providing educational training to children and adults on growing food, nutrition, and food-based entrepreneurship; and 3) linking community groups to a wide range of food security resources and partners.

They are doing important work in Richmond, and I encourage you to come to the dinner
and get involved in their cause.

Shalom Farms, Mezzanine Restaurant and Gallery5 Present:

Growing Community: A Farm to Fork Dinner

Come celebrate the Richmond farming community and Shalom Farms’ work to increase access to healthy

produce in underserved communities in urban Richmond.

Dinner will feature four courses prepared by Todd Johnson, Executive Chef and Co-Owner of Mezzanine Restaurant with produce from 5 of the area’s best farms.

Gallery5 will feature a pairing of 4 Virginia Wines and Micro Brews.

This dinner will take place in the main gallery upstairs at Gallery5.

Additional beverages will be available.

Space is limited, so reserve your ticket now. Click here to buy tickets.

Starry Night

2011-08-09T22:19:00.000-04:00

When you are just not sure what to do with that extra few pounds of bacon in the house......

Get Fresh: With Slow Food RVA

2011-07-06T22:57:00.000-04:00

A few months ago the Anderson Gallery asked me to help put together one of their summer Happy Hour events around the theme of Slow Food. Last Wednesday evening a great crowd gathered to celebrate the taste of summer, connect with area growers, and learn about sustainability, biodiversity, and Richmond’s food community— all while sampling locally-produced, seasonal foods. The line-up included:

• a performance by Richmond’s Gourd Trio

• PizzaTonight on-site selling from their mobile wood-fired pizza oven

• biodynamic and organic wine tasting with Williams Corner

• tutored salumi tastings by Olli Salumeria

• a tasting of Sagitarrio olive oil from Tuscany

• raw goat and Cow milk tasting

• Manakintowne Growers with Padrone peppers and radicchio slaw

Ashley Kistler and Traci Horne Garland

Pete Markham cooking up some Padron peppers

Me(Sporting the Slow Food Snail) and Kathryn Henry Choisser

The Gourd Trio

Pizza Tonight

Ross from Olli Salumeria

Jo Pendergraph from Manikantowne

I'll bring you your dinner

2011-07-06T22:26:00.002-04:00

A few months ago, my friend Charlie Knight and I donated a dinner to St Thomas' Auction and last weekend we made good on our donation. Some lovely folks bought the dinner and as the day grew closer we planned our menu and wine pairings and consulted with our hosts. I wanted to do as much cooking in advance so the evening wouldn't be as stressful.

Our hosts were fellow Northsiders and we started the evening on their Wilmington Ave patio with a little bubbly, a clean Graham Beck Blanc de Blancs 07

Appetizers included a Zucchini Carpaccio with homemade ricotta cheese and light lemon olive oil dressing.

as well as Prosciutto rolls- a simple dish that combines arugula, gorgonzola cheese and pine nuts wrapped in prosciutto.

The two apps presented a bit of a challenge for wine pairings. The carpaccio is more delicate in flavor while the prosciutto rolls combine tangy cheese and spicy greens with the cured meat.  Charlie chose a white and red to complement the apps:


Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 09,  Stellenbosch, South Africa

Ken Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc is  made of 100% Chenin Blanc from 30-year-old vines, the wine was harvested by hand, fermented cool in stainless steel tanks and bottled early to show the freshest fruit flavors of the varietal.


Fratelli Allessandria Pelaverga di Verduno 10
This is a fairly obscure wine from the Piedmont area of Italy; its  color looks  a bit like a Beaujolais, but its much more solid and sturdy wine, a great pairing for the prosciutto and other strong flavors.

The next course was a cold cucumber soup, I call it a White Gazpacho. It's mainly cucumbers (from my garden) and sour cream, with some garlic and onions.  I served it over a mixture of chopped tomatoes, parsley, and scallions. It screams summer.  Charlie paired it with a Dr Bergweiler Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 09.  A Riesling from this northern Germany Mosel region, this wine is lighter and less sweet than many Reislings, and has smoky caramel undertones.

The main course was a stuffed pork loin from a tried and true Paul Prudhomme recipe that I have made several times. It's stuffed with a spicy mixture of sauteed green peppers, celery, and onions, and cooked for several hours at 275 before a final blast at the end in  425 degree oven.  As side dishes I prepared simple sauteed green beans with garlic and a potato gratin layered with a sage Vidalia onion puree.

Charlie picked two reds that held up well to the spicy pork loin.  An 09 Bramare Malbec Lujan de Cuyo  hails from the Mendoza region in Argentina. It has a dark violet color and fruit-filled nose with lots of tannin in the finish.   An 07 Rudi Schultz Syrah from South Africa was a treat. As I can't remember the wine specifically and can't put my hand on my notes, I will leave you with the winemaker's hyperbolic notes, " This stunning Syrah boasts beautiful aromas of blackberry, black cherry, raspberry, and pepper that follow through on the lengthy palate. Well-integrated tannins and seductive hints of mocha, earth and spice add to the complexity of this eponymous bottling from Thelema winemaker Rudi Schultz."

Dessert was late, and well received. A chocolate tart incorporated  tea biscuits and was well paired with homemade coffee ice cream.

Market Days

2011-06-01T17:56:00.000-04:00

Hallelujah, the markets are open. I know, I know, there are markets open year round. But Spring is here and veggies are sprouting everywhere, and the market tables are overflowing. But it's not just fresh produce that's available. Read my take on my favorite prepared foods in this week's Style Weekly

Burgers with a Conscience

2011-04-13T22:43:00.000-04:00

My review of Boom Boom Burgers, Cow Consciousness, is in this week's Style Weekly. You pay a little bit of a premium for grass fed meat, but you get a karmic kickback as well as a great burger. While they need to work on their side dishes, their burgers are delicious, and served on great rolls from locally owned Flour Garden Bakery. I'd much rather fork over a few more dollars for meat that is humanely raised and a meal that doesn't leave a greasy coating in my mouth and belly. I admire their mission and their support of the local community. I sincerely hope that the local community will return the favor.

Style Weekly Wins VPA Awards

2011-04-12T23:08:00.000-04:00

Among many awards garnered by Style Weekly in last week's Virginia Press Association event, the food team won a First Place in Food Writing for the 2010 State of the Plate issue. Thanks to Style Weekly for a great few years ! And Congrats to my editor Deveron and my colleagues Don, Tess, and Joe !

Spring Catch Up

2011-04-04T22:21:00.001-04:00

With Spring upon us, I have been remiss for the past several weeks in posting much so excuse the following recap of my culinary adventures.

I have had several articles in Style Weekly recently, including the 2011 State of the Plate where we gave a nod to Amuse as Restaurant of the Year, but also recognized several other favorites, including Pescado's China Street, The Black Sheep, Acacia, Lamplighter, and more. It's a challenging issue for many reasons, not least of which is a burgeoning restaurant scene in Richmond.

In this week's Style Weekly, I write about Cafe Ole's venture into Carytown, where Betsy Harrell Thomas offers a healthy alternative to our fast-food nation. With fish tacos that are some of the best in town, and a host of other fresh and simple Cal-Mex treats, they are well on their way to becoming a Carytown fixture.

I also have an article in the current issue of Flavor Magazine profiling Julep's bartender extraordinaire, Bobby Kruger. You can find a copy at most Martins supermarkets as well as Barnes and Noble. Speaking of Flavor, I was their guest at a recent wine dinner at Acacia Midtown. The evening celebrated the wonderful wines of Cameron Winery in Dundee, Oregon.

Hosted by Rob Crittenden of Roanoke Valley Wine Company, Cameron's winemaker John Paul, with an Einstein like presence, entertained the group with fascinating stories of his journey from Marine Biologist to winemaker, adventures with vine clones, Burgundy producers and the down and dirty of the business. One of the funniest stories was around how they named their vineyard Clos Electrique. The word clos is French for "enclosure." As one can imagine. a drive through the French winecountry takes you past vineyards enclosed by rustic stone walls. When they lamented their lack of stone walls and the presence of "electric fences," the name Clos Electrique seemed a good fit.

Stories aside, Aline and Dale Reitzer were gracious hosts; Aline runs one of the best "front of the houses" in Richmond, and Dale's culinary prowess needs no introduction and little embellishment.

First Course

Hot and Cold Crab

Hot Crab soup with sea urchin custard and cold crab salad on red pepper puree

2007 Dundee Hills Chardonnay

The soup was sublime- chunks of crab meat floated in a simple dashi broth- the real surprise was the sea urchin custard lining the bottom of the bowl- creamy essence of the sea in every bite.

Second Course

Sauteed Local Rockfish, Butter Braised Kohlrabi, Kohlrabi puree, Almond Grape Sauce
2007 Clos Electrique Blanc

Tender rockfish- poor man's lobester- accented with a subtle sauce and earthy kohlrabi- the wine was a real treat- it got better as it warmed up- fairly complex for a white, the combination of mostly old Chardonnay clones with a touch of Pinot Blanc

Third Course

Veal ravioli, tomato fondue, veal parmesan broth
2008 Clos Electrique Pinot Noir

Tender ravioli with braised veal inside- much better and heartier than the usual puree found in ravioli- tomato fondue channeled summer flavors. Nice pairing

Fourth Course

Pan roasted duck breast on marscarpone,sweetbread, fennel and sunchoke risotto, red wine apple onion sauce
2007 Abbey Ridge Pinot Noir
Rare and tender duck- risotto was indulgent, studded with rich sweetbread, clean fennel flavors, and earthy sunchoke

Desserts included an assortment of petit-fours, including a particluary interesting rose water meringue.

An Italian and a Wok

2011-03-07T00:08:00.000-05:00

Although the myth of Marco Polo bringing pasta to Italy from his travels in China in the late 13th century has long been proven a fallacy, one of Richmond’s newest Italian restaurants, Osteria La Giara, forges a link between Italy and China. Nuccio Giambanco, an immigrant from Sicily in the mid 1980’s and long time proprietor of Nuccio’s Trattoria & Pizza on Richmond’s Southside, cooks his pasta in a wok.
You can read my review in this week's Style Weekly.

You can check out his video on You Tube for a demonstration.

Poignant Moments

2011-02-07T23:08:00.000-05:00

Think about how many important moments you've shared with someone over a cup of coffee, a glass of wine, a pint of beer or a meal. There's a certain intimacy that comes with sharing food or drink- i stumbled upon a moment last weekend that took my breath away. While I don't know the people or the context, this was a moment imbued with spirit and gravitas.

Buen Gusto

2011-02-03T21:25:00.000-05:00

One of my ongoing dreams for the Richmond restaurant landscape has been the desire for a more upscale Mexican restaurant. There are certainly a few places in town that make a decent mole or tamale, but none treat the genre with the refinement and interest that other cities do. A recent trip to Austin's Fonda San Miguel over Thanksgiving, and memories of Rick Bayless 's Frontera Grill in Chicago make me yearn for a higher quality experience in Richmond. With the new Plaza Azteca in Richmond, we've taken a few baby steps, but we still have a long way to go.

Read my take on Plaza Azteca in this week's Style Weekly.

Un weekend Québécoise- Day 3

2011-02-02T00:23:00.001-05:00

Woke up to a cold Sunday morning, with the snow tapering off to flurries. Sampled a Montreal style bagel with smoked salmon for breakfast. Canadian bagels are smaller, denser, and sweeter than their New York cousins and are boiled in a honey sweetened water before being baked in wood fired ovens.

Spent the morning exploring the grounds of the Botanical Gardens, shrouded in layers of snow... footsteps in the crunchy snow

Wandered around Montreal in bitter cold, exploring the city. Late afternoon lunch of mussels steamed in heavy cream with leeks. Experienced Montreal's Bring Your Own Bottle culture firsthand when we realized that the restaurant didn't serve wine but encouraged a run across the street to pick up a bottle instead.

Montreal's Olympic Stadium

Icicles at McGill University

Art Happens

Who's Colder? Susannah.....

Or Our Canadian Friend

Look who's pulling Santa's Sled ?

Un weekend Québécoise- Day 2

2011-01-25T22:58:00.000-05:00

We awoke Saturday morning to heavier snow. After a late breakfast of omlettes with crsispy toasted baguette and bowls of cafe au lait, we headed out for a day of walking in the snow, darting in an out of shops, cafes, and bars. We started our day at the Marche Jean Talon, a large covered market surrounded by small shops- a boulangerie, fromagerie etc. A food lovers paradise. Spent a lot of time in a particularly cool spice shop, Olive et Epices, and at the Seafood market where Christopher shared oysters from Prince Edward Island and Cape Cod.

We had a late afternoon snack of Poutine at the famous 24 hour La Banquise. Poutine is a traditional dish of french fries topped with gravy and cheese curds. It's probably best after a night of drinking.

We stopped at a cool folk club Quai des Brumes to listen to Anique Granger perform with some other great singer-songwriter types. A nice way to wind up a lazy day. Back to the hotel for a nap before our big dinner at the famous Pied Au Cochon.

Many folks had told me that Pied au Cochon was the "must visit" restaurant in Montreal, and I was well aware of Chef Martin Picard's reputation. We got a late reservation at 10 pm and walked through a snowy evening in preparation for the circus that awaited. I had been to Pied au Cochon in Paris years ago, and was interested in tasting the Québécoise spin.

The restaurant pulses with energy and has a great vibe. The open kitchen and mirrored walls make for great people watching and everyone is buzzing with smiles and laughter. One can't eat at Pied au Cochon without sampling one of Picard's Foie Gras creations. The "Plogue a Champlain" ranks up with the top 10 dishes I have eaten. With a buckwheat pancake base, Picard stacks slices of thick cut bacon, potatoes, and cheese and is topped with grilled foie gras, all topped with a maple syrup sauce. It's a brilliant dish combining sweet and salty, rich and lean, soft and crispy. A near perfect dish.

Wanting to seize the moment, I also chose the PDC Melting Pot as my main dish, a combination of all things pig. Boudin, Blood Sausage, Roast Pork Belly and Pork Chop, served in a crock over mashed potatoes, onion and cheese. It was a bit much after the Foie Gras starter, but a good sampling of porky goodness.

Dessert was not to be missed. Susannah and I shared "Pudding de Chomeur" a traditional French Canadian dish that translates to "Poor Man's Pudding." If I could only be this poor every day. It's a simple white cake baked in a dish of maple caramel sauce. Maybe maple syrup was cheaper back in the day when this dish got its name. It's a decadent dish and feeds the soul.

After such a long and gluttonous meal we were happy for the 1/2 hour walk back to our hotel through the snowy night.

Un weekend Québécoise- Day 1

2011-01-24T23:11:00.000-05:00

Last weekend my wife Susannah and I escaped for a long weekend in Montreal to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary and spend a few days sans kids. When I read that the forecast was calling for temperatures to stay below 10 degrees all weekend, I questioned our decision to go North rather than South. I guess the allure of a French experience in a city known for its food scene tipped the scales for me. Just days before we left, I hit the jackpot when a friend emailed me a 15 page guide to Montreal's food scene written by a foodie in the know.

We arrived in time for a late lunch on Friday, the first of many meals we would enjoy in Paris of the north. We had suite in a small hotel Le Relais Lyonnais on the bustling Rue St Denis in the Latin Quarter, well situated just minutes from the old port, the Plateau, and many other cool neighborhoods.

Just a block away was a local microbrewery, Les 3 Brasseurs, actually a Canadian outpost of a French chain. We were looking for a quick lunch as it was late, and when I saw Flammekueche on the menu, I was hooked. They make a selection of beer in house, and I enjoyed a 6.2 amber that quickly took the edge off a morning of traveling. The last time I had eaten Flammekueche, besides the Trader Joe variety, was in Alsace where I believe they call them Tarte Flambée. I had the Québécoise, topped with onions, lardons and raclette cheese. Thin crispy crust topped with salty chunks of bacon and melted cheese. Real comfort food.

After a walk around the cobblestoned streets of the Old City, where it started to snow, we walked back to the Latin Quarter through the small Chinatown neighborhood, looking for roast ducks in the windows. It was so cold that the streets seemed quiet for a Friday night. We had cocktails back at the hotel before heading out for dinner. I had a line on a great place in the Mont Royal neighborhood, Au Cinquieme Peche, and we were lucky to find a table at 9 pm on a Friday night. One of the things that stood out was the elegant service. It was friendly ( in both French and English) yet inconspicuous at the same time.

The menu was chalkboard only, and I struggled a little with some of the French. My eyes immediately locked onto a special appetizer, Brain & Chips. I am an adventurous eater, and it had been some time since I had seen brain on a menu. My wife promised that I wouldn't be getting a goodnight kiss, but I took my chances. It was fantastic. Slices of brain were battered and lightly fried. The texture was crispy on the outside, with a creamy custardy filling. The flavor was rich, in the same way that marrow is but I still have a hard time comparing it to anything. The homemade spicy chips were a nice accompaniement. For a main course I stayed local with tournados of wapiti, the Cree name for elk. It was a lot more tender than most game I have eaten, and the pairing with a rich and fatty roast pork belly was brilliant. As was the 1/2 hollandaise 1/2 veal demiglace on the side.

Interesting Food Stats

2011-01-11T21:04:00.000-05:00

In last Saturday's New York Times, Sam Roberts took a look at some interesting tidbits from the 130th edition of the Statistical Abstract of the United States:

We are eating less meat: 108.3 pounds per person in 2008, down 5.4 pounds since 2000. But that's still almost 1/3 lb of meat per day.

We're eating fewer veggies too: 392.7 pounds per person, down more than 30 pounds.

We're drinking more wine: 2.5 gallons per person, up from 2 gallons in 2000. That's less than I thought, only about 12 bottles of wine in a year.

1/4 of our calories come from Junk food....

A Month of Eating

2010-12-26T17:53:00.000-05:00

I am working on a project with Arthur Huang, an Oakland artist who chronicles eating patterns and has a Peroidic Table of Eating. Below is the raw data of what I ate in November.

John Haddad

Meal Journal

November 2010

November 1

Coffee

Oatmeal with raisins

Slice of cheddar cheese

Rosemary/olive oil veggie straws

Flank & Brisker Pho

Pork roll

Farfalle with homemade sage sausage and broccoli

(porcini broth, red pepper flakes)

2 mini Baby Ruth

November 2

Coffee

Yogurt

Tortellini Soup with chicken broth, garlic, tomatoes and escarole

Apple

Grilled Calamari with white beans

Stella Artois Beer

Steak with mushrooms and French fries

Newcastle Brown Ale

November 3

Coffee

Mini snickers bar

Tortellini Soup with chicken broth, garlic, tomatoes and escarole

Arugula Salad (picked from garden) with olives, feta & balsamic vinaigrette

Chili (Venison, Pork & Beef), Beans, Tomatoes

Slice of 4 cheese bread

Carrots with butter and dill

November 4

Coffee

Bagel with Sausage and Egg

Veggie Chips

Chili over couscous

Arugula salad

Turkey meatballs

Couscous

Roasted brussel sprout

November 5

Coffee

Pho So 1

Pho with Flank and Bible Tripe

Friend or Pho

Short Ribs

Beef Pho

November 6

Coffee

Sweet potato barley mushroom soup

French bread with herbed butter and fresh radishes

Moroccan squash stew

Baked Spaghetti with Feta and meat sauce

Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing

November 7

Coffee

Pita with lebneh and zataar

Baked spaghetti leftovers

Ham & Cheese Panini

March of Dimes Chef Auction

Swamp Thing

Snail risotto with prosciutto wrapped frog legs,

pernod parsley geleé, garlic chips

Molasses Duck Under glass and over caramel corn pudding with

applewood bacon glaze

Herb Crusted Basa with sesame slaw with truffle cream; Butternut

squash & Chorizo "risotto" with smoked tomato coulis

Trio of Cakes

Plantain cake with scallop and coconut chutney

Potato cake with grilled pork and fall chutney

Sweet Potato Cake with Duck and blackberry

Lamb Burger on wheat pita and goat cheese with mint drizzle

Cheese Grit Croquette with balsamic glaze

Cake Pops

chocolate cake coated with candy shell

November 8

Coffee

Pita with lebneh and zataar

Apple

Sautéed vegetables (Kale, chard, carrots, celery) with curry

Salad with Honey Mustard vinaigrette

2 hobnobs

Tabouli salad

Broccoli

November 9

Coffee

Pita with lebneh and zataar

Pho with flank and brisket

Spring roll

Pan seared pork chop with apple mustard glaze

Baked butternut squash with brown sugar

Broccoli

Cookie dough ice cream

November 10

Fried egg and porkchop on English muffin

Tabouli

Rice noodles

The Empress ( Restaurant Critic Meeting)

Calamari

Potato rosti with roasted tomatoes

Bacon wrapped dates with gorgonzola

Smoked catfish with greens

Flank steak with parsnip gratin

November 11

Coffee

Pita with lebneh and zataar

Spicy tuna rolls

Seaweed salad

Enchiladas with black beans and goat cheese

November 12

Coffee

Zucchini bread

Jicama roll

Beef flank pho

Enchiladas with black beans and goat cheese

Meatloaf

November 13

Coffee

Egg casserole with mushrooms bacon and cheese

2 bloody mary’s

Hash brown casserole

Coppola’s Industrial Sandwich

mortedella, Genoa salami, Capicola ham, provolone cheese, hot & sweet peppers,

onions, lettuce, tomatoes and oil & vinegar.

Risotto Milanese

Salad

Baguette

Red wine

November 14

Coffee

Toast with cheddar cheese

Hot dog

Potato chips

Beef barley soup

2 Abita Turbo Dogs

Lasagna

Salad

Bread

Water

Chocolate chip cookies

November 15

Coffee

Pita with lebneh and zataar

Apple

Hot and sour soup

Spring roll

Risotto

Enchilada

Peanuts

3 Stella Artois

November 16

Coffee

Pita with lebneh and zataar

Chipotle Rice Bowl with Chicken

Diet Pepsi

November 17

Coffee

Ham sandwich with mustard

Grapes

Rotisserie chicken

Brown rice

November 18

Coffee

English muffin with cheddar

Chicken sandwich with tomato and cheddar

Chicken with couscous

Spinach with pine nuts and garlic

November 19

Coffee

Wonton soup

Spinach salad with chicken and balsamic vinaigrette

Bourbon and ginger ale

Ham biscuits

Peanut hummus

Green olives

Champagne

Chocolate covered strawberry

November 20

Coffee

Couscous with tomato sauce, cheese and fried egg

Star Hill Love Beer

Reuben Sandwich

French Onion Soup

Bourbon and Ginger ale

Sausage balls

Crab dip

Chicken with rice

Green beans

Salad

Red wine

Cheese cake

November 21

Coffee

Apple

Lamb chili

Local cider

Spring roll

Pho with beef flank

Bourbon and ginger ale

Turkey chili

Peanuts

Blue Moon Beer

November 22

Coffee

Pita with lebneh and zataar

Leftover Pho

Ham and cheese sandwich

Pasta with spinach, carrots and red pepper

Peppermint ice cream with chocolate cookies

November 23

Coffee

Smoothie

Panera Chicken noodle soup

½ chicken salad sandwich

chips

Diet Pepsi

Bourbon and water

Airport Chicken & Bacon wrap

Jack and Ginger

Bourbon and Ginger

November 24

(Austin TX)

Coffee

Egg and potato burrito

Sausage and egg burrito

Iguana Bar- Chips & Salsa & Queso Dip

Stuffed pepper with beef and rice

3 margaritas

Oasis

Mango margarita

Chips and salsa

County Line BBQ

5 meat platter

Brisket, smoked turkey, pork rib, beef rib, sausage

Potato salad, slaw

2 Shiner Bock Beers

November 25- Thanksgiving

(Austin TX)

Turkey, mashed potatoes, cornbread stuffing with sausage,

gravy, sweet potatoes, brussel sprouts, green beans with

garlic and parmesan; cauliflower and squash with gruyere

pumpkin pie

Turkey sandwich

Shiner bock

November 26

(Austin TX)

Egg casserole with ham

Grapefruit and orange with coconut

Chuys

Chips, salsa, queso

Green chili stew with chicken, onions, carrots

Chicken enchilada with mole

Fonda San Miguel

Margarita

Chips and Salsa

Donaji- mescal, Gran Marnier, lime juice, orange juice

Duck enchiladas with creamy cilantro sauce

Coffee

Tres Leche cake

3 Shiner Bocks

November 27

Coffee, scone

Steak and cheese sandwich

Potato salad

Diet coke

3 Pabst Blue Ribbons

Bourbon on rocks

Balliceaux

Sazerac

Cheese Plate- Taleggio, Grayson blue, aged Gouda

Café 27

Rabbit and veal sausage over fingerling potatoes

Chicken marsala

Risotto

Asparagus

November 28

Coffee

Post Thanksgiving Brunch

3 Bloody Mary’s ( Zin Zang, Guinness, Orange Juice)

turkey, cornbread sausage stuffing, brussel sprouts, Mac & Cheese, home smoked bacon

trifle

2 glasses Vaqueras Cotes de Rhone

2 Blue Moon

November 29

Coffee

Granola with yogurt

Turkey sandwich

Salad

Turkey tetrazzini

Salad

November 30

Boka Tacos

Mexican Beef Taco

Pork Asian Taco

Turkey enchiladas

Salad

watermelon radish

2010-12-12T21:24:00.000-05:00

I was sad to go to the last South of the James Market last weekend. There weren't as many vendors this late in the year, but Victory had some nice treats, including the beautiful watermelon radishes. A bit sweeter than typical radishes, these are heirloom daikon radishes from China. It's too late this year, but I may try to add them to my garden next year.

It's Pho-King Good

2010-11-28T19:32:00.000-05:00

Imagine my delight when I got the chance to sample some of the best ( and worst) pho in Richmond. I went to some old favorites but also found a new favorite bowl at Tay Do, on Rigsby Road behind Pho So 1. There's nothing like a bowl of good broth. You can read my take on Richmond pho in this week's Style Weekly . It's Broth that satsifies the soul

Lion's Mane Mushrooms

2010-11-04T00:14:00.000-04:00

Last night our Slow Food RVA board met at Pescado's China Street in Oregon Hill for a few drinks and appetizers. Hung out at the bar and chatted for a little while with the owner Todd Manley. He showed me a fresh catch of the day, not from the sea but rather from the woods in Richmond. I had never eaten Lion's Mane Mushroom. It's pretty impressive looking, almost comical. It never ceases to amaze me what grows in nature. It turned into a rich risotto special for the evening. I had a sample that had been simply sauteed in a little butter and the flavor was nuanced and the texture almost like crab meat. I

2010-10-15T02:12:00.000-04:00

OystoberFest in Historic Ginter Park

RICHMOND’S LARGEST OYSTER ROAST RETURNS!

Saturday, October 16, 2010: 12 p.m. – 6 p.m.

To Benefit St. Thomas’ Episcopal Church

Oysters, Beer, Brats, Bands and a Kids’ Zone

Fried, grilled and raw oysters are the main event, with brats and other grilled options available. Beer and other refreshments will be available.

Live music from Rockfish Willie, The Orderlies, Emma Hern and the Offenders, the Unknown Favorites, Master Fiddler Mark Campbell with the NorthSide Ramblers and more.

Kids’ Zone will include a moon-bounce, slides and more.

Prizes will be raffled all day, prizes include brand-new Apple ipad.

FREE TO ATTEND ($2 Donation suggested) Food, drinks, kids’ zone, raffles charged separately.

St. Thomas' Episcopal Church
3602 Hawthorne Avenue
Richmond, VA 23222

http://www.oystoberfest.com/?ref=nf

So it doesn't just taste like ass

2010-10-13T22:27:00.000-04:00

Dig In with Slow Food RVA

2010-09-23T22:37:00.000-04:00

Dig In! Volunteer Work Day at Shalom Farms

September 25, 2010 10:00 am until 02:00 pm

Shalom Farms, Rock Castle Road off Route 600, Goochland, VA

Join Slow Food RVa members and volunteers for a morning of harvesting, weeding, gleaning, composting etc at Shalom Farms in beautiful Goochland County. Join us in contributing to Shalom Farms' mission of enhancing food security in the Richmond region. All produce harvested at the farm is donated to low-income urban neighborhood organizations via the Central Virginia Food Bank.

Begun in the fall of 2008, Shalom Farms is a nonprofit community farm project of the United Methodist Urban Ministries of Richmond, and is situated adjacent to Camp Westview on the James. For more information about Shalom Farms, visit their website at http://shalomfarms.blogspot.com/

Families with children ages 5 and up are welcome at this event, which runs from 10 am - 2 pm. REGISTRATION IS REQUIRED. Sign up by emailing info@slowfoodrva.org (subject line "Shalom Farms") or call Stacy @ 703.405.3763. Caravan details from city / directions to the farm will be provided upon registration.

Sprout Thinks Locally and Acts Deliciously

2010-09-23T22:34:00.000-04:00

There's new growth in the Fan across from Crossroad's Coffee at Sprout, a restaurant with a mission. Sourcing 90 % of their food locally, Sprout offers a unique menu at a great price point and with a conscience. Read my full review in the latest issue of Style Weekly.

Not Quite Ripe

2010-08-29T21:19:00.000-04:00

I had the chance to visit Vietnam Garden's new location this month for a few meals. While the space is well done, the food was not as consistent. And it has to be something special to pull me away from long-time favorite Mekong. You can read my full review in this week's Style Weekly .

Showered with meals of love

2010-08-29T21:13:00.000-04:00

Susannah's father passed away a month ago after a valiant 3 + year fight against cancer. We all knew the day was coming, but its hard to prepare for the actual event. And to complicate things a little more, it happened the day after I started a new job after consulting for the past year or so. Between adjusting to a new job, trying to help Susannah and the boys, and life in general, cooking was the last thing on our minds. But it didn't matter. For the past month, at least every other day, our friends have showered us with meals- some planned and expected, others clandestine drive bys. Just yesterday morning I got a text that goodies were on the way, and not a 1/2 hour later, a platter of hot out of the oven chocolate and raspberry scones came from Gillian and Bob. And that evening a tray of macaroni and cheese from Kristin and Steve. Susannah has been managing the meals ministry at our church for the past few years, making sure that meals were lined up when babies arrived, friends were sick, and family members died. It was a blessing to be a recipient of that love for the past month and I thank all of our friends.

Picnic Memories

2010-07-13T15:03:00.000-04:00

Years ago when I was living in Rome in 1990, I took a trip to the south of France with some friends. We were stranded in Aix en Provence during a train strike with nary a franc. We pooled our money for some provisions for an unforgettable picnic in the shadow of Mt Ste Victoire.

A short story that I wrote about it appears in this week's Smithsonian.com. Picnic Memories

Historical Fiction

2010-07-08T10:35:00.000-04:00

Here's my latest review in this week's Style Weekly !

At Hanover Tavern, the menu is only as good as its execution.

By John G. Haddad

One of the few surviving colonial-era taverns in the United States, Hanover Tavern has played host to George Washington, Lord Cornwallis and the Marquis de Lafayette. It’s also served as the home to the Barksdale Theatre since the 1950s, and is owned by the Hanover Tavern Foundation, which is committed to restoring the tavern and promoting its historic significance. Not many restaurants in the area can claim such longevity. But on two recent visits, it appears to suffer from the age-old historical problem of truth diverging from the written text — in this case, the menu.

My wife and I drive up scenic Route 301 on a cool summer night to Hanover Courthouse. At the tavern, we’re seated by a disinterested hostess in the cool and atmospheric basement next to the pub, in a room that drips with history. Our server is apologetic but it does little to salvage the mood while we wait 45 minutes for our appetizers. The meal begins auspiciously with fried green tomatoes ($6) that wear a heavy fried crust and come with a side of pimento cheese. I’m excited to try the three cheese spoon bread ($7), served with lavender honey. I grew up eating spoon bread, mostly from the recipe of my grandmother’s friend, Mrs. Mercer, in Staunton. At its best it’s a Southern soufflé, a bit like Yorkshire pudding. This version is more akin to runny grits or cornmeal queso. To make matters worse, the aromatic lavender honey clashes with the coarseness and flavor of the cornmeal and cheese. Our long wait is for naught.

A roasted red and golden beet salad ($8) strays from its menu description. Missing are the golden beets, and we must search to find a few morsels of red beets at the bottom of a pile of greens that conspicuously lacks the promised arugula. The dressing bears no resemblance to tarragon-orange vinaigrette.

Entrees don’t improve our evening. Shrimp and grits ($17) are uninspired. While the local grits from Ashland’s Byrd Mill have a nice flavor, they’re cold and congealed. The bevy of small shrimp on top tastes fishy and remains for the most part uneaten, and the sparse sprinkling of Cajun sausage lacks spiciness and does nothing for the dish. The best thing on the plate is a side of fried Brussels sprouts. Susannah’s gnocchi ($16) lean toward the heavy side, and we search for the sautéed seasonal vegetables that the menu describes, finding only asparagus and grape tomatoes swimming in a heavy red tomato sauce.

Of the three choices on the dessert menu ($6), we go with cheesecake and crème brûlée. The cheesecake is dense and sweet but lacks a distinct vanilla flavor. Beneath a crunchy facade the crème brûlée is tired and dry, again missing the promised vanilla.

On a return visit for lunch, we sit in a very different space. The veranda room is upstairs on the enclosed back porch. I sit and watch clouds flit by against a brilliant blue sky. And we wait again, for almost 30 minutes, for our order to be taken. She-crab soup ($4) and a Caesar salad ($6) are average, and the salad’s missing the advertised Parmesan crisps. The Reuben sandwich ($8), however, is outstanding, with tender and juicy house-made corned beef, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. The club sandwich ($7) suffers from its small size, and the garlic aioli and sourdough bread are missing. Potato salad is dressed up with blue cheese and bacon but the unfortunate crunch comes from undercooked potatoes.

History is made up of a series of small events and details that are recorded and remembered. And this is precisely where the Hanover Tavern missteps. From absent ingredients and substitutions to long waits and indifferent service, this tavern must attend to details to sustain success and carry on its centuries-old tradition of hospitality.

Hanover Tavern & Pub ($-$$)

13181 Hanover Courthouse Road
Hanover 23069
537-5050
hanovertavern.org
Tuesday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Sunday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m.
Lunch or pub menu available between lunch and dinner service
handicapped accessible

Prime Meats

2010-07-04T13:44:00.000-04:00

A recent visit to New York found me in Brooklyn with an old friend, Dave, who has a bustling business, One Girl Cookies, in the Boerum Hill neighborhood. After spending some time with their new baby ( 1 yo) and Dave's sweet wife Dawn, we wandered down to Carroll Gardens for dinner at Prime Meats, the latest offering from Frank and Frank that was recently awarded 2 stars from the New York Times.

We put our names on the list and went down to Butttermilk Channel for a drink, another bustling Brooklyn eatery relying on local products.

When our cell phone rang a bit over an hour later, we were ready to eat. We were seated at a communal table on the bar side, and enjoyed chatting with our neighbors who quickly ingratiated themselves by sliding over an almost full bottle of red wine they they could not finish ( It must have been # 2 or 3 judging by their jocularity).

According to Frank and Frank, " Prime Meats is a farm to table restaurant created in the spirit of the inns and dining rooms found in New York at the turn of the century. Prime Meats is influenced by Germanic alpine cuisine and the menu pays tribute to the American artisan movement; featuring local and fresh ingredients, prepared simply and honestly."

We started our meal with a few appetizers- a traditional German pretzel made with malt flour, yeast lye and salt, served with mustard. It had a nice crispy outside and soft interior, much fresher than the usual street fare.

We contnued with roasted beef marrow, served with slices radish, gremolata ( a tangy conbo of lemon, capers and parsley), a head of roasted garlic & toast.

Sürkrüt Garnie was outstanding - their version is sausages & meat slow cooked in house lacto-fermented sauerkraut and includes knackwurst, bratwurst, pork belly, calves tongue & potatoes.Although sauerkraut is a traditionally German and Eastern European dish, the French annexation of Alsace and Lorraine following the Peace of Westphalia in 1648 brought this dish to the attention of French chefs and it has since been widely adopted in France.

Enjoying a German style beer

Sauerbraten is outstanding. They cook a Beef brisket that has been brined for 3 days in red wine, vinegar,apples, onions & spices (clove, cinnamon& juniper) then slow braised until fork tender. It is served

with pretzel dumplings and braised red cabbage.

Mac McCormack pours a bit of his heart and soul.

2010-06-16T11:32:00.000-04:00

Man Cave

Almost everything about McCormack’s says testosterone.
by John G. Haddad

From the outside, McCormack’s Whisky Grill & Smokehouse looks innocuous. It’s a world apart from some of its more rambunctious neighbors on the popular Robinson Street pub crawl. Closer in feel to the Commercial Taphouse than to Buddy’s, Metro Grill or Star-Lite, it’s as serious about its whiskey as the Taphouse is about its beer.

Inside, you step into a calm experience, a perfect way to end a hectic weekend on a recent Sunday night. The lights are low, the wood paneling and slate wall accents are soothing, and if a drink is what you need to relax, you’ve come to the right place. The décor says men, with pictures of Elvis and posters from John Wayne films, but interestingly the other patrons are women. The server is friendly and talks about the high points of the 180-plus whiskey selection. If that’s not your thing, there is a full bar, but no beer on tap.

We start our meal with an Evan Williams single barrel on the rocks and a Rebel Yell with ginger, sampling a few starters from the small menu. An artichoke dip ($10.95) is dressed up a bit with smoky bacon, and green-bean fries ($6.95) are tasty in the thick batter but definitely not health food, served with a bold garlic aioli.

Entrees include sandwiches, burgers and steaks. The duck breast ($16.95), a nightly special, is tender, moist and adequately gamey. Its cherry demiglace reduction lacks subtlety but the sweetness of the sauce complements the duck’s flavor. Mac and cheese is creamy with white and yellow cheddar, blue cheese and parmesan, but what makes it stand out is a nutmeg-laced béchamel. Collard greens are overly sweet and vinegary and their consistency makes me wonder if they come straight out of a can. The meatloaf ($13.95) is a flavorful combination of beef, turkey and andouille sausage, juiced up with a rich brown gravy. Our children enjoy a cheeseburger ($8.50) that’s cooked to perfection, and while they like the steak-cut fries, I’m disappointed in their lack of crunch.

Desserts are fresh: A layered key lime pie brings a sweet pucker and is accompanied by a berry sorbet. Mexican chocolate cake is dense, not quite moist, accented with cinnamon and served with vanilla bean ice cream.

My second visit starts strangely at 5:30 on a Monday night. The bartender never shows up but my experience is better for the substitute: Mac McCormack, the owner. You won’t find a nicer guy in a Richmond bar. He spins yarns of his restaurant experience and his philosophy for the bar. It doesn’t have a phone. He wants it to be a neighborhood place you need to patronize. It doesn’t take credit cards — a stand against the man and a hopeful buffer against some of the more typical Robinson Street bargoers. McCormack earnestly wants a more sophisticated atmosphere for clients to revel in peace, drinking some of the best whiskey selections the city has to offer, and eating substantial food from his Buckhead’s-pedigreed chef.

Mac recommends a moderately priced, small-batch Sam Houston whiskey. Its rich and tangy flavors acquire spice from aging in heavily charred casks. My friend Peter drinks an Ardbeg scotch, redolent with smoke and peat.

The dinner special is exceptional. Squash and spinach enchiladas ($12.95) are studded with corn and topped with a complex and spicy tequila sauce. Sauteed snap peas and asparagus taste like spring. We also sample the house-smoked barbecue ($9.95) that’s cooked until tender and more savory than sweet. A side of baked beans is elevated to a higher plane with smoky bacon and a touch of brown sugar.

With more than 10 years logged at his Shockoe Bottom pub, Mac McCormack is a veteran of the local bar scene. His experience shows in his handcrafted new Fan venture, where in addition to whiskey, he pours a bit of his heart and soul.

McCormack’s Whisky Grill & Smokehouse
204 Robinson St.
Daily 5:30 p.m.-2 a.m.
Lunch hours coming soon
No phone or Web site
Cash only

croaker's southside

2010-06-03T11:45:00.000-04:00

I have been a big fan of Croaker's Spot for years and lamented the closing of the Jackson Ward location. Fear not. Croaker's has just swum across the river to Manchester in some newly restored digs. And they improved on their traffic flow- now takeout is available through a separate entrance.

Read about my impressions in Style Weekly

Weight of the state

2010-05-19T11:29:00.002-04:00

I had the opportunity to go to a few sessions at yesterday's Weight of the State conference. A sobering affair on many levels. The basic take away as you might imagine is "heavy", pun intended. The overall obesity rate in the Commonwealth is on the rise and particularly troublesome among our youth. Some studies suggest that they are the first generation in a long time whose life expectancy will be shorter than their parents'.

For some of the conference presentations, you can visit the website at Weight of the State.

Comfort me with offal

2010-04-29T11:39:00.002-04:00

Nearly 2 months ago, in a stroke of culinary hilarity, someone came up with the brilliant idea of mashing the tweets of former Gourmet editor Ruth Reichl with the attitude and raunch of Anthony Bourdain. In addition to becoming a mainstay in the culinary twitterverse, "Ruth Bourdain" also maintains a blog, Comfort me with Offal at http://ruthbourdain.tumblr.com/

Here are some recent tweets that caught my eye:

Down below cars creep down puddled streets. Up here brown sugar, butter, cream swirl into oats. Above a chimp is drinking my absinthe. WTF! 7:14 AM Mar 23rd via web

Mind fucking blown at Marea's Soft Seafood Cuddle Party: snuggled w/eggs, oysters, uni, roe in a giant sea urchin shell. Smell awful now.

Scavenging! Gnawing on a cold, charred Porterhouse bone. Last egg. Only 1/2 lid tangerine zest. Barely breakfast on this cool gray morning

Beautiful RT @andreareusing: Our @ruthbourdain breakfast: soft-boiled farm eggs, crisp toast, children hectoring, projectile vomiting.

@jbchang u know what else works great? Guy fieri's goatee. Best organic bristle brush you'll find. Even cleans beards of mussels. Seriously about 20 hours ago via Tweetie in reply to jbchang

Off to get mani-pedis & cupcakes w/Giada & Rachael. Then, jazzercise w/Alice Waters & Paula Deen. Could be the worst fucking day of my life.

Fuck. Cut myself slicing rhubarb, ruby drops falling from the knife. Outside a finch flies thru window into my mouth. Better than ortolan.

On the river, tiny sailboat drifting by. Batali struggling to do one pushup. Geese nibble my grass as I swat them w/a hot dog, beak by beak 5:03 AM Mar 20th via Tweetie

Breakfast at Balthazar: Quintuple espresso, croissants, conversation. Room abuzz with oversleeping eurodouches. Shit it's sunny! 4:09 PM Mar 17th via Tweetie

There's also an interview on GQ's website that is worth a read.
Click here for the full story

Amuse (Bouche)

2010-04-28T14:40:00.003-04:00

With the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts set to re-open this week, I am eager to try out what may become "the place" for the power lunch crowd. While there has been some debate about the pedigree of the chef chosen to run the restaurant, there's no denying that it is a stylish spot with a great view. While initially slated to be open just a few nights a week, its popularity may dictate otherwise.

Soft Shells

2010-04-28T14:16:00.003-04:00

Tis the season for soft shell crabs. The molting season for blue crabs typically begins in late April and runs for several months. It's during this time of that blue crabs shed their hard external shell in preparation for growing. Just got an e-mail from Acacia that they have them in stock and learned a few new terms relative to the different stages of crab softshelledness:

Velvets: Pulled from the water only 30 mins after they shed
Shippers: Pulled from the water 4hrs after shed
Papers: Pulled from the water 6-8hrs after shed
Buckrams: Hard Crab

My favorite way to cook hardshells is pretty simple- dip them in beaten egg and dredge them in cornmeal or flour with some salt and pepper and pan sautee them until they get crispy. One of the sweetest treats from the sea !

Taste of Spring

2010-04-28T13:28:00.005-04:00

The timing of one of my favorite Spring treats is dependent upon how the fish are swimming upstream. Shad spends much of its life in saltwater but swims up into freshwater rivers to spawn. The female shad, heavy with eggs, is a fisherman's dream catch. My friend Rob hooked me up a few weeks ago with some gorgeous shad roe, already cleaned.

My father-in-law was in town and has fond memories of shad roe and eggs as a breakfast treat down on the shores of the Nansemond River near Chuckatuck. I lightly dusted the fragile lobes of eggs in cornmeal, salt and pepper and sauteed them in bacon fat until they were golden brown.

Shad roe has a texture more like a rich liver than fish, with a light taste of the sea. Six Burner's Philip Denny featured shad roe with a lemony arugula salad a few weeks ago that was a perfect complement.

When it's just too hot in the kitchen

2010-04-21T16:42:00.003-04:00

As Spring transitions into Summer, and our kitchens become the last place we want to spend time, there are a few newish options for Richmonders looking for take-out. Olio on Main Street, formerly the European Market, and Spoonfed in the near-west end in the former Stonewall Market space, both offer some nice options for take-out. Olio has a more diverse menu that includes sandwiches and salads, pizza and entrees, as well as some mid to high end gourmet items (high end being the $249.00 bottle of aged balsamic vinegar). Spoonfed offers more traditional cocktail party and dinner fare, including ham biscuits, shrimp and grits, and filet mignon.

For the full feed, check out this week's Style Weekly.

A complete meal

2010-04-08T09:17:00.002-04:00

I am not sure how you weigh food vs service when you go out to eat. I like service that is friendly and informed, but not overly chatty or obtrusive. I find service in Richmond to be spotty at best. Too many dinners are overshadowed by less than stellar service. It's too bad, because many of these restaurants are turning out some great food.

Last month I had a few meals at Six Burner, and while their chef Philip Denny is one of Richmond's rising stars, the delivery was lacking. You can read my full review at Style Weekly.

Garden Days

2010-04-06T22:36:00.002-04:00

I am so behind on my garden this year, but I promised myself that this would be the year that I figure out irrigation. It has always been my achilles heel and the garden yield has suffered. Foliage always outpaced my fruit because of the way I watered. Hope to get planting in the next day or two.

Maundy Thursday

2010-04-01T19:12:00.002-04:00

It's Maundy Thursday, the night signifying the Last Supper. What would be your last supper ?

Egyptian Orange Cake

2010-03-16T11:27:00.007-04:00

Years ago, when I was living in Charlottesville, one of my favorite haunts was the Rising Sun Bakery. And one of my favorite cakes to this day is a flourless Egyptian Orange Cake that I first had there. Years later my wife surprised me with it for my birthday and every year I try to make it at least once or twice. Last weekend I made it for my good friend Brandon's birthday and shared it with a group of foodie friends including @bpfox,@forknbottle and @impoliticeye.

The Recipe

2 oranges (juice or navel)
2 c sugar
6 eggs
8 oz blanched sliced almonds
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 c whipping cream
1 c chocolate chips

- Simmer whole oranges in water for 2 hours, until soft, not mushy
- After cooling, quarter and remove seeds
- Pre-heat oven to 325
- Mix/grind oranges and almonds in food processor for several minutes until a paste is formed. Add orange juice to moisten if necessary
- Add baking powder and pulse to mix
- Add sugar and eggs and mix for 15 seconds
- Scrape bowl and process another 15 seconds
- Grease and line 8 or 9" spring form pan with parchment/waxc paper at bottom
- Pour batter in pan and bake for about 1 hour- until firm and medium brown
- Let cool- cut around edges to remove
- Bring cream to boil over high heat, reduce to simmer and add chocolate chips.
- remove from heat and stir until smooth
- Pour ganache over top of cake

In an interesting twist, I was searching the internet and found that the original owner's daughter is trying to put together a recipe book to commemorate the bakery.

To see her blog, click here

Summer Dreaming

2010-02-22T20:49:00.003-05:00

I had a chance to battle two snowstorms on recent visits to Summer Shack, a seafood joint on the Goochland/Richmond line, just West of Rt 288. While it's not haute cuisine, they do the fried seafood genre very well. Crabcakes, shrimp & grits, and oysters, and tuna tacos are also very good. It's a partnership of Bobby Dervishian, former co-owner of Patina Grill, and Stefan Crawford, formerly with the Border Chop House and chef at Mickey’s Crabhouse in Bethany Beach, Del., for 15 seasons.

Check out the full scoop.

Revising Warhol.....

2010-02-19T09:42:00.002-05:00

From the Good Blog, and the Wall Street Journal

Researchers at Campbell's tested people's subconscious "neurological and bodily responses" ( using biometric research) to different images to guide the redesign of their label. Campbell's now knows, for example, that you feel more emotionally engaged with your soup when it looks warm and that you don't care about spoons.

I still don't like Campbells Soup

Slow Food RVA Established

2010-02-17T10:03:00.002-05:00

Over the past 8 months a small group of Richmonders have been working behind the scenes to launch a local chapter or "convivium" of Slow Food USA.

Slow Food is a non-profit, member-supported, volunteer-based organization started in Italy over 20 years ago to counteract fast food and fast life, the disappearance of local food traditions and people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, how it tastes and how our food choices affect the world we live in.

Local chapters (convivia) are the heart of the Slow Food movement. Organized by local volunteer leaders, they provide a forum for interested individuals across the community to taste, celebrate, and champion the food and food traditions important to their regions.

Chapters offer educational events and public awareness-raising activities to promote sustainability and biodiversity, and to connect farmers, cooks, educators, students—everyone who cares about their food, where it comes from, who produces it, and the environment which we all share.

The celebration of local, seasonal and sustainably produced wholesome food as a cornerstone of pleasure, culture and community underpins everything that Slow Food RVA will be about.

Visit us on our new website, follow us on Twitter, and become a fan on Facebook.

Enoteca Sogno has found a new home !

2010-02-13T11:15:00.002-05:00

After several months of searching (soul and otherwise), Gary York has found a new space for Enoteca Sogno, on Richmond's northside in Bellevue. The former Belle B and Bella Arte space at 1223 Bellevue Ave offers some interesting architectural details and neighbors such as The Northside Grill and Nicola Flora.

Welcome Back Gary !

The Republic: Richmond's Bread & Circus

2010-02-12T09:36:00.004-05:00

I know that there has been a lot of blogger gymnastics around the opening of The Republic in the former Cabo's space and issues around leases etc. I tried to keep my focus on what I'm paid to do- evaluate the food, atmosphere etc. While The Republic has engaged in some nifty marketing ploys- their offers of a tiered membership and lots of Republic shwag, in the end I think that there greatest success lies in the way they were able to maintain a smoking section. Lots of people still smoke, and many love to smoke while they drink. End of Story. They have a pretty good beer selection and decent bar fare. Rick Lyons has some experience under his belt in attracting a certain crowd. And he continues the streak with The Republic.

To read my full story, Check out this week's Style Weekly

Frank Bruni 's Born Round

2010-01-30T15:33:00.005-05:00

I woke up early today at 5:30 with the snow falling outside. It was quiet, and everyone else in the house was still asleep. I made a strong pot of french roast coffee and settled in to finish Frank Bruni's memoir Born Round.
An accomplished writer who had numerous posts with the New York Times including Metro, DC political, Rome Bureau and most interestingly to me- the food critic. He writes of his childhood raised by Italian mother who show her children love through their stomachs and the wonderful food she prepared. Bruni writes of his life-long struggle with his weight, especially as a political correspondent following Bush 2 on the campaign trail, a journey filled with all you can eat buffets and upwards of 7 meals a day. At first the ongoing chronicle of his waist size fluctuation was a bit tedious but I kept reading to get to the chapter of his life that most interested me - his account of being chosen to be the NYT food critic and a crazy life of aliases, disguises and weight-maintenance strategies. It was worth the wait. or is that weight ?

University of Richmond Cooks Up a Winning Formula

2010-01-22T13:03:00.001-05:00

For the past 12 years, the University of Richmond has offered culinary classes through their School for Continuing Studies. UR's Center for Culinary Arts offers a wide range of programs from the comprehensive CAP Certificate, a 42 hour program that includes 4 core courses ranging from Tools of the Trade to Chef's Skills and Bakeshop Basics etc, 4 electives, and a Certified Executive Chef Review. They largely cater to a home-chef audience (about 90% of students) with industry folks making up the rest. Martin Gravely,local chef and food writer, runs the program with the assistance of Pastry Chef Tom Parfitt

Corporations also use the space for team-building events during business hours (one client was interestingly using the cooking theory "mise en place" to help their team understand the importance of being prepared in the office for a major project) and they also run a popular wine & dine program that is more demo than hands-on.
About 2000 people a year come through the center’s programs, with most classes in the evenings between 6-9 pm and some on the weekend.

I had the pleasure of visiting their newish working classroom kitchen off Gayton Road in the west end and saw firsthand their beautiful facility and shared a wonderful meal.

These are the highlights from lunch:

Homemade Panko-crusted Queso Blanco with charred cherry tomatoes, basil chiffonade, and a roasted tomato coulis (They use non-homogenized milk from Homestead Creamery for their cheese)

Seared scallops with beurre blanc and pancetta with a pretty beet garnish

Pepper crusted filet mignon with a Madeira jus, roasted brussel sprouts with a Dijon caraway vinaigrette and roasted shallots topped with a nest of fried potato strings

Lemon Meringue tart with ginger blueberry compote (they talked about this dish as being a great learning tool- allows students to learn several techniques- a sucre crust; tempering- adding eggs to lemon without curdling; meringue .....)

If you are a home chef looking to sharpen some of your kitchen skills, or with an organization looking for a great teambuilding activity, UR’s Center for Culinary Arts is a great option.

For more information visit them online at

scs.richmond.edu/culinary

A Missed Opportunity

2010-01-14T12:34:00.002-05:00

Amici, one of Richmond's stalwart restaurant traditions, recently underwent a renovation to its space. It's warmer and more roomy, but I think they missed a great opportunity to update their menu as well. While I generally like Amici, their menu seems a bit tired. I understand that they have had 20 years of success with a tried and true product, but still I wanted more. You can read all about it in this week's Style Weekly.

Mangia Mangia

What DC thinks about Richmond eats

2010-01-03T20:35:00.003-05:00

Last week the Washington Post's Tom Sietsema critiqued some of Richmond's finer and well known eateries. It's nice to see Dale get a nice review- he's doing some of the best plates around.

For D.C.'s take on Richmond eats, click here

A Pig Holiday

2010-01-02T17:54:00.005-05:00

Holidays are usually filled with pigging out, and the 2009 Christmas season was no exception. Pig Out took a more literal meaning as we indulged on many pork delicacies. A few days before Christmas, my brother Matt and I spent about 1/2 day in his kitchen making sausage.

We made three varieties:

Sage Breakfast links- a thin all pork sausage seasoned with sage and salt & pepper

Hot Italian Sausage- a fatter link seasoned with fennel, crushed red pepper, and Pernod (a French anise liquor)

Boerwors- a South African style sausage (thanks to some tips from Chris Mattera at Belmont Butchery) that was 1/2 pork and 1/2 venison and seasoned with coriander, nutmeg, and salt.

One of my favorite Christmas traditions is a breakfast of Eggs Benedict- poached free range eggs, Canadian style bacon from Belmont Butchery, and asparagus, all topped with a rich lemony Hollandaise sauce ( as a kid I always thought it was Holiday sauce, because that was the one time of year we ate it.)

We had a few friends over for New Years Day to indulge in some traditional foods that we always eat for good luck or financial success. In addition to black-eyed peas and stewed tomatoes, I cooked a spicy cabbage dish. My favorite tradition dates from my time in Italy, eating cotecchino sausage, with lentils and sage. It's a rich sausage spiced with cinnamon and cloves.

Tasty Pastry downtown

2009-12-10T10:42:00.002-05:00

As I wondered about the origins of the name of Aurora, one of downtown’s best-kept and perhaps strangest culinary secrets, my Russian friends give me a clue. The Aurora was a Russian cruiser ship that played a role in the 1917 October Revolution, a key moment in the Communist revolution. Chef Scott Davison, one of the key players at Richmond’s Aurora, is following in that tradition by bringing pastry to the people.

Read about the diverse array of pastries that one can find at Aurora, take a bite.

New Mexican in Shockoe Bottom

2009-11-18T14:47:00.003-05:00

Aztek Grill has joined the ranks of Mexcian restaurants in Richmond. Their menu is more pan-Latin than most and goes a step beyond most of Richmond's typical fare.

Click here for the whole burrito

Breakfast of Champions ???

2009-11-18T14:38:00.003-05:00

My son is in kindergarden at Holton Elementary School in Richmond. It's a great school with a great principal, David Hudson ( who by the way is featured on the cover of North of the James this month.) Raine has asked me to have breakfast at school, which by the way is free to any child who chooses to partake. I finally relented and joined him last week. I have to admit that my expectations were not very high, but i was surprised that the 2 main entrees were pizza and pancake on a stick (with a sausage center its remarkably like a corndog. Cold cereal (of the sugared variety) and bananas rounded out the offerings.

And we wonder why our kids are getting fat, developing diabetes, and are in generally poor health. Where is the oatmeal when we need it?

Collegiate Epicureans

2009-11-18T14:32:00.002-05:00

I was invited last week by Pam Anderson, artist extraordinaire and art teacher at Collegiate to speak to their Epicurean Club. A group of about 30 high schoolers at Collegiate meet a few times a month to talk food. They had just been to Edo Squid for a tasty field trip a few days before I visited, and they were a pretty interested bunch. I spoke to them about the job of a food critic, my background, and The Slow Food Movement. It was great to see so much energy in a such a young group.

Padron Peppers- a tasty treat

2009-11-18T12:58:00.010-05:00

I was at the South of the James Farmers Market a few weeks ago and was pleasantly surprised to find Padron peppers being sold by the nice folks at
Manakin Specialty Growers. My friend and neighbor Brandon Fox was the first to introduce me to these little treats- perfect for a pre-dinner cocktail hour.

In the frying pan

Ready to eat

The aftermath

Here is some additional history from Wikipedia:

The most famous produce of Padrón are its peppers (Spanish pimientos de Padrón), which are small green peppers from the Capsicum Annuum family. They are served fried with olive oil and coarse salt. Most taste sweet and mild, though some are particularly hot and spicy, which gives its character to the dish and is perfectly captured in the popular "Os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non" (Galician for "Padrón peppers, some are hot and some are not"). The level of heat varies according to the capsaicin of each pepper. Although it's not always the case, the peppers grown towards August/September tend to contain more capsaicin than the ones of June/July.

About 15,000 kg of peppers are grown in Padrón each year (mostly in the valley of the parish of Herbón) between June and September. In 1979 the first Festa do Pemento de Padrón was organized in Herbón, a popular gastronomic event that has been held every year since, the first Sunday in August. The festa takes place in the carballeira of Herbón's Franciscan convent, since it was the Franciscan monks who brought the first pepper seeds from Mexico in the 16th century, which then were adapted to the soil, the Oceanic climate of the Valley and grown with special techniques.

A Dinner to Remember

2009-11-18T12:46:00.006-05:00

On one of Richmond’s most dreary and dank evenings last week, a little restaurant on Broad Street became one of the warmest and intimate rooms I have ever experienced. Gary York, proprietor of Enoteca Sogno, presented Giuseppe Vaira and his Piedmonte wines.

Wise beyond his 24 years, Giuseppe told the story of how his father Aldo left the big city of Torino to return to the land of his ancestors near Barolo to start producing wine. And now he is following in the footsteps of his “padre”, newly graduated from university with a degree in winemaking. But he tells us that not everything can be learned in the classroom. Recently his father asked him how the vintification process was going. He reported back that all the levels and temperatures were on track. He went on to ask him, how does it sound? Did you listen to the grapes fermenting? There are not many who still believe in the alchemy of it all, the mix of science and soul.

The first wine we sampled was a Langhe Bianco, a surprising wine for this region. Giuseppe called it Barolo’s wife! It is a Riesling planted on the vineyard of Fossati, located at the borderline of the village of la Morra. Fossati is quite a steep vineyard, and growing the grapes at a higher altitude does a few things- it produces a wine with a wider mid-palate and it utilizes land that would be unsuitable for other grapes because of the cooler temperatures. And it’s unlike most Rieslings you have ever tasted, much drier and cleaner with subtle peach and apricot fruitiness but a long mineral finish. A nice start to the evening.

We were served an appetizer platter with our next wine- a nice selection of Fra Mani salami, a bra duro cheese from Piedmonte- it tasted more like sheep than cow to me; a rapini tart, and an onion sformato- a savory flan.

The next wine was a 2007 Langhe Rosso – a combination of 80% Dolcetto, 15% Barbera, and 5% Fresia, and Nebbiolo.
It’s a great drinking wine- hints of currant, a canopy of flavors, a bit spicy, nice body and smooth finish.

Our next wine was a Dolcetto d’Alba 2007- I learned that the Dolcetto grape is one that can be used as an eating grape and also to make wine- it has a deep purple color with low acidity and lots of tannin. The next wine was also a Dolcetto Coste & Fossati, 2007 –made with a blend of Dolcetto grapes from 2 vineyards- Coste has a SW orientation on a step slope and its afternoon line gives the grape more structure. The Fossati vineyard, with a SE orientation, gets morning light and is more delicate in its body and flavor. Combined together, they are a great pair. It was a nice complement to the Butternut Squash soup with fried sage on top. Earthy and delicious.

The next wine was a 2007 Nebbiolo delle Langhe- Giuseppe spoke of the wine in comparison to the famous Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni- it makes whatever it is served with a “princess.” It certainly was a great pairing with the mushroom risotto, cooked perfectly al dente with just enough cheese to enhance all of the flavors. Giuseppe joked that this was his “college wine” that he kept his roommates happy with throughout the year. It’s a great food wine.

Our final course was a beef shank cooked in Barolo and served with its juices over creamy polenta. The 2003 Barolo was a real treat – even though it was a hot year, the relative lateness of the Nebbiolo harvest gives them the advantage of cooling down. It’s a great wine with food, fruity with surprising level of tannin given the weather.

The final wine of the evening was another surprise, Vajra Kye, made with Fresia grapes, a lesser known Piedmonte grape style, and the name is a play on the Italian Chi e’? what is it ?

Thanks to Gary York for bringing Giuseppe to town and for a great evening.

March of Dimes Chef Auction

2009-11-12T19:53:00.007-05:00

On Sunday night I had the chance to judge the March of Dimes Chef's Auction at the Westin. Along with Tess Bosher, fellow Style Food critic, Ellie Basch, owner of Savor Cafe in Manchester, and Henry Reidy of Strawberry Street Vineyard, we were wrangled by Judge Coordinator Tanya Cauthen of Belmont Butchery. After some deliberation over 8 entries, we scored each submission on Presentation, Taste, and Creativity.

The winning dish, from Chef Michael Hall at the Bull and the Bear Club, was a clever entry. What at first glance looked like baby lambchops were in reality portobella mushrooms wrapped in bacon with chop bones. what I thought were mushrooms were actually chunks of lamb. Polenta was carved to look like bone marrow- and the whole thing was served on a spun candy plate. Beautiful and clever and tasty too.

Second place went to Phil Denny from Six Burner for a Trotter & Foie Gras croquette- ground pigs feet and foie gras bound together in a crispy panko encrusted ball of heaven, accented with a spicy harissa-like sauce.

Photographs by Lorenzo

Charcuterie

2009-11-12T19:37:00.003-05:00

Charcuterie has its roots in the ancient world as a way to preserve meat before refrigeration. Today we honor this tradition partly as a way to uphold our culinary legacy, but mostly for reasons of taste. Charcuterie in its many forms — prosciutto, bacon, pâté, terrines, confit and sausage, to name a few — is a real treat and increasingly, one that can be found on Richmond menus.

Read more in Style Weekly.

Click Here To Take the Cure

A recipe and a song

2009-10-27T22:46:00.002-04:00

One Ring Zero, whom the Boston Globe describes as having "not only embraced their “lit rock” reputation but seem primed to become the movement’s indisputable kings” has begun asking their favorite chefs for recipes. The recipes are then set to music and sung WORD FOR WORD in a musical style suggested by each chef.

You have to hear it to believe it

A Dinner Donation

2009-10-26T12:44:00.005-04:00

St Thomas

My friend Paige and I donated a dinner for the 2nd straight year to the St Thomas’ Auction. Last weekend we made good on our “Local Dinner” for the Gallaghers and their guests. My fall garden has been slow to come in so a trip to the South of the James market was in order to pick up greens and other salad items.

The menu for the evening consisted of:

Appetizers:

Greek cured olives
Cheeses
-a local goat cheese wrapped in corn husk and soaked in moonshine,
-a rosemary manchego
-a double cream in the brie family.

Soup:
Butternut squash finished with a calvados spiked apple confit

Main
Niman Ranch Pork Tenderloin with a Moroccan rub
Ratatouille
Rice pilaf with vermicelli, pine nuts and golden raisins

Dessert

Apple Tart with Brown Butter Ice Cream

( I must say that the brown butter ice cream was a first for me and one of the best things i have ever made- big thanks to Pim !)

School Lunch

2009-10-15T12:14:00.003-04:00

I had lunch with my child Raine's kindergarten class today. At 11:15 am. I usually pack his lunch 4 days a week, and he eats what the cafeteria is serving on the 5th day.

It was meatloaf today ! In light of all of the news about e-coli problems with ground beef, I have to admit I was a little bit leary. will let you know if I get sick. The meatloaf was served with chopped greens, collard I think, and I confirmed that they were of the canned variety, missing the porky goodness that a ham hock adds. they were okay, but I noticed that none of the kids tasted any- they would be well served to take notice of what the kids eat and don't and plan menus better. I also had a small side salad and some chocolate milk- most of the kids drank either orange or apple juice. Not sure if its a great idea to give them a juice option- it's one of the major contributors to childhood obesity and it's in the healthy category. There were apples and bananas and containers of sugary freestone peaches as well.

I was disappointed that the meals are served on throw-away styrofoam trays with plastic utensils- need to do some digging to understand the economics behind that decision.

Holton has a progressive streak- we have funding to build an outdoor classroom and garden. Hopefully we will see some the Holton harvest infiltrate the cafeteria before too long. And another exciting update is that there is some national movement on improving school lunch quality and nutrition- click here to read about the new legislation, Healthy Food for Healthy Schools Act of 2009

Have your cake and eat it too !

2009-10-15T09:53:00.004-04:00

DISCLAIMER: THIS IS A BIASED POST ABOUT MY WONDERFUL WIFE SUSANNAH'S ART

My wife Susannah has been painting for 20 years zou zou's basementand baking cakes for longer than that. These days she has been able to combine her passion for painting and desserts with a series of cake paintings.

Jenny Tremblay of Sweetest Thing Bakery has featured some of Susannah's paintings on her blog.

If you have an occasion that you want to preserve, remember you can have your cake and eat it too!

Sauce on the Side

2009-10-08T10:33:00.005-04:00

One of my food mantras is "keep it simple." And don't mask the true flavors of what you are cooking. Read my take on Michelle William's latest venture, Water Grill in Carytown in this week's edition of Style Weekly.

One of Richmond's nicer patios !

Take a big bite

Conde' Nast turning off the oven at Gourmet Magazine

2009-10-05T10:58:00.002-04:00

After nearly 70 years of publication, Conde' Nast is shutting down operations at Gourmet Magazine. It seems a bit shortsighted- home cooking is on the rise and Gourmet is one of the only publications to so perfectly fuse food & travel. I am sad to see the news and wonder what Ruth Reichl's next step will be.

It's like Etsy for Food

2009-09-23T22:25:00.002-04:00

Check out Foodzie, an online marketplace for food from small passionate food producers and growers. It has been descibed by some as ETSY for food- it even has a map function that you can use to check out local producers.

Take a bite !

Heritage Harvest Festival

2009-09-12T17:49:00.011-04:00

What a glorious day for the 3rd annual Heritage Harvest Festival, and a beautiful new location at Montalto, Thomas Jefferson's "high mountain" that looks over Monticello and the University of Virginia and Charlottesville below. A collaboration of The Thomas Jefferson Foundation, Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, and the PD 10 Master Gardeners, the festival offers a variety of classes and exhibits that support the mission of preserving sustainable gardening practices and heirloom plants.

There were classes and demonstrations all day, such as the sausage-making demo above.

Dozens of varieties of heirloom tomatoes, peppers etc were available for sampling.

Feast, one of my favorite Charlottesville gourmet shops, sponsored a cheese tasting where they paired heritage apple varieties with artisinal cheeses. Had a chance to sample some camembert from Old Chatham Shepherding company in the Hudson River Valley of New York- it's almost as good as the real thing. Susannah and I had visited the dairy years ago. Also had a taste of one of Virginia's better cheeses, the Meadow Creek Dairy's Grayson, from Galax, a raw cow milk cheese from grass fed cows- washed rind creamy goodness.

Tasted some great zucchini bread and squash soup from Local Food Hub and made plans to connect with them about some collaborative Richmond/C-ville events.

And as if my senses hadn't been aroused enough already,it was a great surprise to hear the sweet sound of Devon Sproule's voice wafting through the sun-dappled trees to complete our day.

Food Industry Needs Reform Too

2009-09-10T16:17:00.003-04:00

Michael Pollan wrote an inciteful op/ed piece in today's New York Times that makes the important connection of healthcare reform and food industry reform. There's no disputing that our misguided agricultural policies have contributed significantly to our nation's obesity crisis. Pollan postures that if the health insurance industry was forced to apply an equal coverage model, it will behoove them to help reform food policy. Over the course of their lifetime, a diabetic costs an insurance company about $400,000.00. no small change. Pollan goes on to say " No one disputes that the $2.3 trillion we devote to the health care industry is often spent unwisely, but the fact that the United States spends twice as much per person as most European countries on health care can be substantially explained, as a study released last month says, by our being fatter. Even the most efficient health care system that the administration could hope to devise would still confront a rising tide of chronic disease linked to diet."

For the skinny, click here

Heritage Harvest Festival This Saturday at Monticello

2009-09-08T12:10:00.003-04:00

About the Festival

Organized by Monticello and the Southern Exposure Seed Exchange, the Heritage Harvest Festival at Monticello is an annual celebration of local food, heirloom plants, and sustainable gardening. Thomas Jefferson championed vegetable cuisine, plant experimentation, and the value of sustainable agriculture and the Heritage Harvest Festival at Monticello continues that legacy.

The 2009 festival will be held from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday, Sept.12 on Montalto, Thomas Jefferson’s “high mountain,” overlooking his historic home and gardens, the city of Charlottesville, and the surrounding Virginia Piedmont.

There will be fruit and vegetable tastings, chefs demonstrations, informative workshops, talks, children’s activities, and much more – all to promote regional food, organic gardening, and the preservation of traditional agriculture. Local vendors will offer meals and snacks, as well as seeds, plants, garden supplies, etc.

An Old-Timey Seed Swap – where seed savers can share their knowledge, enthusiasm and seeds – will begin at 8 a.m.

Parking is $5 per car; carpooling is encouraged.

Verde is not so green

2009-09-01T17:13:00.002-04:00

I was disappointed by the efforts of the new bistro Verde in the west end. Mediocre food with even worse presentation. I hate eating out of plastic, and that's really the only option that they give you.

Read all about it in this week's Style Weekly

Food and wine as collateral for bank loans

2009-08-21T08:47:00.003-04:00

After reading the story on Boing Boing I began to contemplate what I could borrow against my fig jam, or okra pickles. Or even better, a jar of my great aunt's bread & butter pickles that I have been saving for just the proper occasion.

(Posted by David Pescovitz)

Italian banks may soon accept high-end prosciutto and wine as collateral for loans. The Italian agriculture minister is into the idea. Apparently, it's not as far-fetched as it sounds.

From The Guardian: The Italian bank Credito Emiliano has long stored hundreds of thousands of parmesan wheels, worth about 300 (euros) each, in warehouses as collateral while they age. Since the bank can sell the cheese if creditors default, it can afford to offer low interest rates to an industry which is suffering from recession and supermarket discounting. Legs of cured ham, or prosciutto crudo, weighing about 10kg, can sell for hundreds of euros after months of curing in controlled conditions, while bottles of Brunello di Montalcino are regularly snapped up for the same amount. "We may start off with accepting wine as collateral, but I would prefer the Italian banking association to launch an industry-wide scheme which involves a range of products," said Zonin. "This will help producers in times of crisis as well as when the economy picks up."
Click here to read The Gurdian article

Cupcakes do make you smarter

2009-08-13T09:49:00.003-04:00

Courtesy of Vanessa Ruiz's blog,Street Anatomy , and Boing Boing for leading me there...

If cupcakes are your thing, check out some great paintings at zou zou's basement.

Bitten by Bollywood

2009-08-12T11:03:00.002-04:00

Read my latest article on Richmond's Little India in the west end. Old Parham Road boasts a slew of Indian shops- a market, Laxmi Palace that stocks most of the provisions you need to whip up a curry or daal, a movie rental shop to find Bollywood's latest, a small kebab restaurant, and Indian Pastry House, a strange Indo- French fusion. While the whole block begs for ambience, there are some tasty treats that await you. As a few of my Indian friends have pointed out, it's no Bombay, hell, its not even DC or NY or London standards, but it's a heck of a lot closer for some take-out, and a birthday cake while you're at it.

Click here for the full story

2009-08-12T10:58:00.003-04:00

This entire post is Courtesy of Obama Foodorama

Lee S. Dean, food editor at the Star Tribune in Minneapolis, has created a series of nutrition awareness posters to help teach middle school and high school students about healthy eating. She sent in the most obviously relevant one to Ob Fo (wink wink), but her excellent poster series of historical figures made of good foods also features Abe Lincoln, George Washington, and Albert Einstein, among others, with the message that eating healthy is eating smart.

Ob Fo wondered if a poster featuring First Lady Michelle Obama might be in the works, given Mrs. Obama's food agenda? Ms. Dean said she's considering it, and she thinks the Obama food agenda is "definitely going in the right direction," and that the First Family is serving as good role models for eating right. In the pantheon of Obama food art, Mrs. Obama is far less represented than the President, which is interesting...but it's still early in the scheme of things, riiight?

In Ms. Dean's Obama poster, the jacket is made from collards, pear and turnip; skin and hair from black and mahogany rice, cracked wheat, flax seed, millet and wheat berries; facial features from cashews, garlic, jalapeno, olives, oyster mushrooms, peppercorns, pickles, raisins, red onion, tapioca.

Thanks, Ms. Dean!

*Visit Lee Dean's website here for more poster info, and check out her cookbook, Come One, Come All-Easy Entertaining with Seasonal Menus.

Green Tonic Redux

2009-08-08T09:21:00.004-04:00

Take me to the river and drop me in the water
Dip me in the river, drop me in the water
Washing me down, washing me down.

~D Byrne/ A Green

A group of disciples were treated to a baptism of sorts, a ritual washing and cleansing in green, for a few days this week at the Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens. Over 100 participants, from the region and beyond were privy to hearing impassioned national speakers talk about some of the most interesting trends in Greening Cities, Biophilia, Food Apartheid, and more.

Rachel Flynn, Richmond’s Director of Community Development, kicked off the proceedings with a heartfelt talk about “Urban Greening, Economic Vitality, and Environmental Sustainability.” She referred to the city’s Master Plan process and the hopes to focus more attention on green spaces, pedestrian needs and public transportation. She also reaffirmed a city commitment to making the James River as our Central Park

A bus tour gave visitors an interesting view of the city as we meandered down Boulevard and then through Carver and Jackson Ward on our way to Church Hill. Our first stop was Libby Hill Park, at the site where William Byrd was struck by the similarity of the view to that of Richmond upon Thames, a village outside of London and thus dubbed us Richmond.

A visit to Tricycle Gardens was eye-opening as Lisa Taranto explained the history of the community garden project that she started as well as plans for other similar initiatives around town.

Finally, we stopped at the new green headquarters of the Virginia Association of Counties and got an insiders peek at the LEED process as well as the rooftop garden.

After a lovely dinner of locally sourced salads and berry trifle, we had the pleasure of hearing from Tim Beatley, Professor of Sustainable Communities at the University of Virginia’s School of Architecture. The word of the evening was Biophilia, - “the innately emotional affiliation of human beings with other living organisms.” In a nutshell- it’s essential for our wellbeing to connect with nature. He shared a variety of examples of strategically planned communities where nature is integrated in interesting and fulfilling ways.

Wednesday’s highlights included Leni Sorensen’s historical overview of agriculture in central Virginia with a particularly interesting account from an 1805 slave garden journal from Monticello that detailed the produce sold to the plantation. I also learned that corn pone is a kissing cousin of our beloved spoon bread. La Donna Redmond gave a very personal glimpse into the world of food allergies and issues of access and nutrition in the Chicago Public School System. Her personal journey has been a launch pad for creating innovative farm to table programs in Chicago and for examining issues around “Food Apartheid.” that impact certain marginalized groups of our society who cannot access healthy food for one reason or another.

Drew Becher, the Executive Director of New York Restoration Project hilariously recounted his journeys with Bette Midler as they restored many of New York’s old parks and implemented an impressive Million Trees NYC campaign. “ By planting one million trees, New York City can increase its urban forest—our most valuable environmental asset made up of street trees, park trees, and trees on public, private and commercial land—by an astounding 20%, while achieving the many quality-of-life benefits that come with planting trees.”

Afternoon break-out sessions focused on issues like Food Security and initiatives to green our community. My head was spinning from so many great ideas from the previous talks that I felt a bit overwhelmed.

Kudos to Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens for bringing together so many talented folks from around the country who were able to tell their compelling stories and inspire me and my fellow attendees to stay focused on the work at hand in Richmond to create a community of green.

Green Tonic was a refreshing drink.

The Saveur 100 Wants Your Opinion

2009-07-28T11:12:00.004-04:00

Calling all food lovers: We’d like to share your favorite ingredients, recipes, wines, spirits, restaurants, markets, chefs, cookbooks, cooking tips, kitchenware, and more, in the pages of SAVEUR magazine. All the items for next year’s SAVEUR 100, our annual tribute to a hundred great things from the world of food, will come from you, our readers. After all, you’re some of the most passionate and knowledgeable food lovers we know.

Saveur 100 Voting

Summer Loving # 3= Blueberry Cobbler

2009-07-20T20:17:00.006-04:00

A few weeks ago i went blueberry picking with my 3 1/2 year old- $ 1.00 a pint to pick your own. We didn't have a bountiful harvest, but enough to mae a few batches of cobbler. I found a recipe on Epicurious for Bill's Blueberry Cobbler (Gourmet, August 1998)that is one of the easiest and best recipes I have tried. I added a twist of my own to spectacular results:

Ingredients

3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter (I USED SALTED AND LOVED THE ZING IT ADDED TO THE CAKE)
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 cup sugar
2/3 cup milk
2 cups blueberries (about 11 ounces)

I ALSO ADDED a T of lemon zest and a squeeze of lemon juice

Preheat oven to 375°F.

In an 8-inch square or other 2-quart baking dish melt butter. Into a bowl sift together flour, baking powder, salt, and nutmeg and stir in sugar until combined well. Add milk and whisk batter until it is just combined. Pour batter into melted butter; do not stir. Pour berries into center of batter; do not stir. Bake cobbler in middle of oven 40 minutes, or until cake portion is golden and berries exude juices.

Summer Loving # 2= Cucumber Gazpacho

2009-07-20T18:32:00.003-04:00

This soup, is kind of like a white gazpacho, without the tomatoes, and the ingredients can be mixed a bit with good results. It's a very refreshing soup- a great starter on a warm evening.

Cucumbers, peeled and seeded
Buttermilk ( A combo of chicken broth and sour cream works too)
Cilantro
Hot pepper (can be any number of varieties) to taste- I recommend starting on the not as hot side - its harder to turn the heat down
green onion or a sweet onion like vidalia
crushed garlic
salt & pepper to taste

Mix all the above ingredients in a food processor and play with proportions of liquid to solid depending on your consistency preference.

Summer Loving # 1 = Pesto Genovese

2009-07-17T10:53:00.003-04:00

The arugula and lettuce is on holiday until fall and the summer garden is in full swing. Cucumbers and squash are abundant, and tomatoes are ripening on the vine. During the past few weeks I have pulled out some of my favorite summer dishes which I will attempt to translate into recipes below:

Pesto Genovese

Originating in the port town of Genoa in the Liguria region of Northwest Italy, Pesto’s name comes from the Latin word pestare, to pound or crush, and literally refers to the original process of pounding the garlic and herbs in a mortar and pestle( hmmm, see a similar root there). Thank god for the Cuisinart, which makes whipping up a batch of pesto a snap.

Ingredients

about 2 cups of washed and dried basil
2-3 cloves ofgarlic
Handful of pine nuts ( other nuts work in a pinch)
~1 cup Olive oil
~ 1 cup fresh Parmesan cheese
salt & pepper to taste
freshly ground nutmeg

Process

• Pulse olive oil and garlic in blender
• Add pine nuts and pulse some more
• Slowly add basil leaves and keep pulsing
• Add cheese and seasonings and give it a final whirl

Hint: sometimes if I am making a big batch to freeze, I leave out the cheese and freeze in iec cube trays. When frozen pop them into a Ziploc, and add cheese when you are ready to use.

GMOs are not the answer - Oppose Casey-Lugar bill

2009-07-14T11:01:00.002-04:00

"Changing the focus of US international development policy from direct food aid to agricultural investment in the developing world is a laudable goal. But declarations by Secretary of State Hillary Clinton and Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack that biotechnology and GMOs are the answer are misguided and ill-informed. As a recent World Bank/UN report recently concluded, GMOs are unsuited to the developing world. We urge you to oppose Casey-Lugar and any bill that contains earmarks for, investment requirements in or promotion of GMOs abroad."

Click here to sign the petition

Michael Taylor's Views on Food Safety

2009-07-08T09:22:00.002-04:00

La Vida Locavore nicely summarizes the views of the new FDA Food Safety guy, Michael Taylor

He says his vision is "rooted in" a 1998 NAS report "Ensuring Safe Food from Production to Consumption." He calls for:

1. Taking a farm-to-table approach to preventing food safety problems;

2. Using risk analysis to better understand potential hazards, design interventions, and prioritize prevention efforts;

3. Collecting necessary data to support risk analysis, through monitoring of the food supply, foodborne illness surveillance, and food safety research;

4. Harnessing the primary role of food producers, processors, retailers and consumers in preventing food safety problems;

5. Implementing preventive process control, such as HACCP, throughout the food industry;

6. Establishing science-based food safety performance standards;

7. Carrying out a modern inspection program to support the vigorous enforcement of food safety standards;

8. Integrating food safety efforts among federal, state, and local food safety agencies;

9. Allocating government food safety efforts and resources in relation to risk and opportunities to reduce risk; and

10. Observing sound food safety practices at the final preparation and consumption stage through well-informed commercial food handlers and consumers.

And here's the thing... these are all good ideas, IF they are applied properly. IF you identify that major risks in our system are unhealthy conditions in factory farms and fast line speeds in slaughterhouses and eliminate those risks, you will probably make real progress towards a safe food supply. But is Taylor willing to do that? Is anybody in our government? So far, no.

Furthermore, I question the government's ability (or interest in) applying these principles to small, independent producers.

The government tends to craft laws in a way that are most suitable for large corporations, but they apply them to everybody. I'm not saying that small producers cannot cause foodborne illness or that they are inherently safe, but I'm saying that we have a trade-off to consider. We should either regulate the little guys fairly or not regulate them at all (instead of regulating them unfairly, with laws written for big corporations).

For the full report, click here

Feed the City Soul

2009-07-06T17:55:00.004-04:00

Plan to attend Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden's Green Tonic symposium on August 4-5 to learn about " Urban Gardening for Health and Wholeness."

It's an event for neighborhood organizers and community leaders, urban planners, architects and designers, public officials, health advocates, local food activists, students, master gardeners, and more.

Of particular interest to foodies may be a workshop on Food Security, Access, Nutrition, and Health.

For more details check out the website and register today

when you just can't eat it

2009-07-06T15:25:00.002-04:00

have you ever had a piece of fish that arrived a little late to the table... like a few days ?

a piece of meat that was either still moving or cooked to death ?

a hitchhiker that just doesn't belong.

do you want to know how to handle the situation ?

when to send it back

A Garden with a Mission

2009-07-03T08:10:00.004-04:00

Last Saturday I had a chance to visit one of my favorite Richmond spots, the Lewis Ginter Botanical Gardens. Jonah Holland, the marketing guru for the gardens, took a group of local bloggers on a special tour. In addition to the wonderfully appointed new rose gardens, and the children's area with a great climbable Mulberry tree, the special Butterfly exhibit is worth the trip alone.

One of the garden's secrets is unfolding on a plot behind the conservatory. What looks to be about an acre of land has been cultivated and worked by volunteers in growing a host of vegetables- tomatoes, squash, peppers, eggplants and other goodies. And the best part of the equation is that Richmond's Foodbank stands to benefit with a goal of 10,000 pounds of fresh produce this summer.

Lewis Ginter was one of the city's 20th century visonaries. And the garden does a great job of maintaining his legacy. Plan to attend Green Tonic on August 4-5 to learn about " Urban Gardening for Health and Wholeness." For more details check out the website and take time to smell the flowers

A sum of its parts

2009-07-01T06:49:00.004-04:00

As we prepare our grills for cook-outs this July 4th weekend, many of us will be grilling burgers of some sort. Today's New York Times offers up a bevy of tips from some of New York's finest chefs. From bun to meat to toppings, a good burger is a sum of its parts.

take a big bite

Say no to plumping

2009-06-25T09:54:00.003-04:00

do you know what's in your chicken? Read the labels, or better yet, buy from one of the local farmers at one of Richmond's markets. In a clever campaign, Foster Farms brings to light the practice of plumping with, you guessed it, talking chickens. Here are a few basics

PLUMPING= The practice of injecting saltwater, chicken stock, seaweed extract or some combination thereof into chicken to increase its weight and price, while simultaneously increasing sodium content by up to 700%.

THE MISSION
Foster Farms created the “Say No to Plumping™” campaign because we have always been committed to providing value and quality to you and your family. In our 70-year history, we have never injected saltwater into our fresh poultry products labeled “100% Natural.” We believe that when you pay for premium, fresh chicken, that’s exactly what you should get.

FACTS ABOUT COST
Plumped chicken is 85% chicken and 15% saltwater.
A person is likely to spend $1.50 per package on saltwater when buying plumped chicken. The average household could waste more than $150 a year on saltwater.
The USDA estimates that plumping can cost American consumers up to $2 billion per year.

FACTS ABOUT HEALTH
According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, high-sodium diets often lead to high blood pressure.
High blood pressure is a leading factor in the incidence of heart attacks, strokes, stomach cancer and other serious health conditions.
One serving just – 4 oz – of plumped chicken has more sodium than a large order of french fries.

FACTS ABOUT WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Plumped-chicken labels will have (in small print) a phrase such as “contains up to 15% saltwater.”
According to the FDA fresh, natural chicken should not have more than 70 mg of sodium per 4 oz serving – the amount of naturally occurring sodium in chickens: Hence, the reason you may see “not a sodium-free food” on a chicken package.
Chicken that has been plumped can contain up to 440 mg of sodium.
Almost all frozen and marinated products have either added salt or saltwater.
Fresh and natural chicken should be just that – fresh and natural. No saltwater needed. Almost all fresh, natural chicken contains up to 4% retained water that is the result of processing, which ensures product safety.

To see the talking chickens, click here !

dressing up your vegetables

2009-06-24T12:43:00.003-04:00

Cucumbers are in, and look what funny things people are doing with them at the South of the James market. I usually wait until later in the season to start dressing up the veggies I am sick of(think squash).

What veggie games do you play ?

Some Scoop on Pitango Gelato

2009-06-18T10:54:00.005-04:00

The next time I'm in Washington DC, I'll be sure to sample some Pitango Gelato, located on P Street, between Dupont and Logan circles. The owner, Noah Dan is a stickler about ingredients, and used organic milk from Pennsylavania and the purest fruits and nuts he can find. Unlike most gelato, there are no stabilizers or other additives. With almost 20 flavors daily, the variety includes "cantaloupe, mojito and local-strawberry sorbets and Sicilian almond, pistachio and crema, a vanilla custard with a touch of lemon."

get the scoop here from the Washington Post.

A TownHouse to eat in.

2009-06-17T10:47:00.003-04:00

A few months back, my friend Vaughn mentioned an amazing meal that he had at TownHouse,a restaurant in the small Appalachian town of Chilhowie in Southwest Virginia. I have had the menu sitting on my desk for months, drooling over Confit of Rabbit Leg, served with morel mushrooms, juniper, salsify and an infusion of wood as well as Tea Smoked Loup de Mer, White Asparagus with Pulled Honey and Cold Smoked Chocolate with carrot, indian curry, coriander, coconut, and mint. I did a little research and understood the culinary context better after seeing their experience at Chicago heavyweights Charlie Trotters and Alinea. And today they were recognized by the New York Times. Check out the great article at

All the Food That's Fit to Eat

FDA = sustainability ?

2009-06-12T09:04:00.004-04:00

Slate continues the converasation about the effects of the new administration's food policy on corporate giants and smaller organic farmers. What will the shift to a sustainability policy by the FDA mean for the agricultural landscape? Maybe only Mother Nature knows.

sow some seeds

Going Coastal

2009-06-10T15:21:00.003-04:00

Going Coastal

Westhampton snags a seafood standout.
by John G. Haddad

Succulent shrimp and grits and the seared scallop appetizer are helping Coast build a reputation for culinary finesse. Photo by Scott Elmquist

There are few disciples of food and wine in Richmond as fervent as Gary York. He eats, drinks and breathes the epicurean life and isn’t shy talking about it. As a fan of his first restaurant, the Italian wine bar Enoteca Sogno, I’ve been awaiting the opening of his latest venture, Coast, in the Libbie and Grove neighborhood. I was eager to see how his slavish attention to detail would translate to a new style of cuisine. My visit proved worth the wait.

My wife and I visit on a warm weekday evening. The front door is open to the street, inviting us into the softly lighted space. A blue granite bar anchors one side of the room, bright patterns adorn the walls and a large mirror reflects the sidewalk and street traffic, creating the illusion of a larger space. The plain gray exterior seems incongruent with the aesthetics of the neighborhood, but red patio umbrellas indicate newly available outdoor dining, always a draw in Richmond.

The wine list is diverse, an interesting mix of Californian and European vintages. York had just returned from the Italian wine expo in Verona, Italy, a few weeks earlier, his annual pilgrimage. My wife samples a Liberty School chardonnay, available by the glass or bottle, and is pleased by the oaky buttery flavors. The markup seemed a tad high at $9 a glass for a bottle that retails for around $13. When I couldn’t decide on a red or white, our knowledgeable server suggests a rosé that isn’t yet on the menu. It’s made with sangiovese grapes, and when I inquire about the production, York himself comes to the table to explain in layman’s terms the different methodologies for making a rosé.

As its name suggests, Coast’s menu leans toward seafood, but also includes several land options. We start with a scallop appetizer ($13). Two plump, seared scallops are served on a bed of asparagus purée surrounded by crispy fried shiitake mushrooms. A drizzle of truffle oil finishes the divine combination of flavors and textures.

The mixed field greens are dressed with light citrus vinaigrette ($8). A pistachio-crusted warm goat cheese fritter is the perfectly tangy companion to the slight sweetness of the dressing. My only criticism is that the serrano ham is overly chewy. The heirloom beet salad ($9) combines bright red and yellow chilled beets and oranges over arugula spiked with goat cheese and a sweet orange and beet vinaigrette. The colorful presentation enhances the overall effect.

We opt to stay coastal with our entrée choices: I have skate wing ($21), one of my favorite dishes and rarely seen on a Richmond menu. It’s classically prepared, pan-seared and finished with lemon-caper brown butter, crispy outside with a moist and meaty interior. A side of homemade tagliatelle, finished with butter and fresh thyme, and a serving of caramelized cauliflower with mustard sauce rounds out the plate, simple dishes executed with perfection.

Shrimp and grits are one of my litmus dishes — a benchmark wherever I have the chance. Coast’s rendition ($21) is among the best I’ve had. Perfectly cooked shrimp, tender, coarse-ground grits, roasted tomatoes that deliver pure flavors, and a creamy sherry-roasted garlic finish elevate this Low Country favorite to the realm of haute cuisine. Coast’s lunch menu includes simpler versions of the dinner menu and adds a series of sandwiches including a Kobe beef hamburger and an oyster po’ boy.

Desserts are traditional and seasonal. A strawberry shortcake is moist with just the right buttery density, straddling the worlds of salty and sweet. A vanilla bean crème brûlée channels pure flavors in its creamy interior and has the requisite tap-with-a-spoon crispy top.

Coast feels and acts like a restaurant with experience. Under the watchful eye of a seasoned gourmand, it has a winning, upscale formula that should bring success. The only missing link is waterfront property, but Westhampton is the next best thing. S

Coast
5806 Grove Ave.
288-8446
Lunch: Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m.
Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday, 5:30-10 p.m.
Nonsmoking

Frivolous Food Lawsuits

2009-06-08T15:16:00.001-04:00

Frivolous Food Lawsuits, courtesy of Smithsonian.com's Food & Think

"Crunchberries are not found in nature. Crunchberries aren’t real fruit?!?

A California woman filed a class-action lawsuit against PepsiCo, the corporation that makes the sugary “Cap’n Crunch with Crunchberries” cereal. The front of the box features a perky cartoon sea captain holding out a spoonful of colorful round nuggets that vaguely resemble berries (well, if berries came in colors like teal).

The woman contended that “the colorful Crunchberries, combined with use of the word ‘berry’ in the product name, convey the message that Cap’n Crunch is not all sugar and starch, but contains redeeming fruit…In actuality, the Product contains no berries of any kind…Had she known that the product contained no fruit, she would not have purchased it.”

The judge granted the defendant’s motion to dismiss, citing the precedent of a similar case involving Froot Loops. Seriously.

What’s next, someone discovering the shocking truth about Grape Nuts cereal? Or that there are no real rocks in Cocoa Pebbles?"

apocalypse cow

2009-06-03T13:09:00.002-04:00

With a thank you to the folks at Tasting Table

"Food Inc., which opens in select cities on June 12, is a documentary that looks inside the American agribusiness machine to show us both the gears that make it move (genetically modified crops, industrial meatpackers, McDonald's) and the destruction it leaves behind (indie farmers, exploited workers and unhealthy consumers)."

click here for a taste

Rye Squared

2009-06-03T10:01:00.003-04:00

My son Rye

A Recipe for Rye from today's New York Times

Rye Old-Fashioned
Adapted from Rye, Brooklyn

Time: 5 minutes

1 teaspoon Demerara sugar

2 ounces rye whiskey

1 or 2 dashes Angostura bitters

1 or 2 dashes orange bitters

1 strip lemon peel.

1. Spoon sugar into a shaker and add about a teaspoon of very hot water for a simple syrup. Stir until dissolved, adding a little more water if needed.

2. Add whiskey and bitters, and stir again. Add several ice cubes and stir well to chill. Strain into an old-fashioned glass, add 2 or 3 big ice cubes, twist lemon peel over the top and drop it in.

Yield: 1 drink.

Top 10 Sightings of Religious Figures in Food

2009-06-02T20:35:00.001-04:00

Click here to see the intersection of food and the divine

watching the garden grow

2009-05-28T23:23:00.004-04:00

In the beginning- adding some organic matter to the freshly tilled plot !

setting out the rows and experimenting with some landscaping material this year. GO AWAY WEEDS !

Susannah had the great idea to laminate the seed packets to label the rows- notice the old silver fork !

Things are starting to grow- notice the steam as I work the soil on a cool morning.